中转马德里回家 – Layover in Madrid

2026年6月5-6日,星期五-六,2026北部意大利之旅的第十五和十六天

June 5–6, 2026, Friday–Saturday – Days 15 and 16 of Our Northern Italy Trip

星期五 – Friday

今天终于到了离开的日子,十四天的意大利北部之旅正式画上句号。我们的下一站是西班牙马德里,在那里停留一晚后再继续返程。早上,民宿帮我们预约的出租车9点15分准时到达门口。本以为二十分钟左右就能轻松抵达机场,没想到车子开出不到两分钟,就遇上了严重堵车。前方车辆完全停滞,一动不动。司机见状甚至下车帮忙指挥前面的车辆挪出一点空间,然后带着我们穿梭小巷试图绕行。可惜好景不长,开了几分钟后又陷入新的车阵里。这一次堵得更彻底。司机不断向路边经过的行人打听情况,最后得知是一辆电动车停在路中央无法移动,导致周边道路几乎全部瘫痪。我们坐在车里干着急,看着时间一点点流逝,开始担心会不会赶不上飞机。好在过了一段时间,警察终于赶到现场疏导交通,车流开始缓慢恢复。原本二十分钟左右的路程,硬生生开了五十多分钟才到机场。当然,车费竟然达到了70欧元,比我们从机场到民宿时的二十多欧元贵了三倍多。不过考虑到司机一路积极想办法绕路、下车协调交通,我们还是额外给了他5欧元小费。没想到到了机场才发现,我们的航班居然晚点了两个小时。刚才一路上的紧张和焦虑瞬间变得有些好笑,算是白白担心了一场。我在机场点了一份现做的意大利肉酱面做午餐。

Friday

Today was finally departure day, bringing our fourteen-day journey through Northern Italy to an official close. Our next stop was Madrid, Spain, where we would spend one night before continuing home.

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佛罗伦萨最后一天 – Last Day in Florence

2026年6月4日,星期四,2026北部意大利之旅的第十四天

June 4, 2026, Thursday — Day 14 of Our Northern Italy Trip

今天是比较轻松的一天。上午我们去了米开朗基罗广场欣赏佛罗伦萨全景。广场位于阿尔诺河南岸的高地上,是俯瞰整座城市最著名的观景台之一。从这里可以将满城红色屋顶、圣母百花大教堂的穹顶以及远处的托斯卡纳丘陵尽收眼底。虽然我们民宿的屋顶平台已经非常惊艳,但这里的视野显然更加开阔,整座城市仿佛一幅铺展开来的画卷。还有一个小任务,寻找PJG家人二十多年前来佛罗伦萨时拍摄的一张照片。我们原本以为照片就是在这里拍的,于是拿着旧照片反复比对角度和背景。可惜没能找到完全吻合的位置,宣布任务失败。

Today was a more relaxed day. In the morning, we visited Piazzale Michelangelo to enjoy the panoramic view of Florence. Located on the high ground south of the Arno River, it is one of the city’s most famous viewpoints. From here, the sea of red rooftops, the dome of Florence Cathedral, and the rolling Tuscan hills in the distance can all be seen at once. Although the rooftop terrace at our apartment already offered stunning views, the panorama from here was even more expansive, with the entire city spread out before us like a painting.

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大卫雕像 – The David Statue


2026年6月3日,星期三,2026北部意大利之旅的第十三天

June 3, 2026, Wednesday — Day 13 of Our Northern Italy Trip

著名的大卫雕像就诞生在佛罗伦萨。这尊被誉为西方雕塑史巅峰之作的巨作,由米开朗基罗创作,而他开始雕刻时年仅26岁。我第一次知道大卫雕像,还是初中学素描的时候。画室里摆着它的石膏头像,老师总说这是最经典的素描对象之一。所以那时的我只知道它是一尊著名的石膏像,并不知道这座雕像所代表的许多颠覆时代的意义。

The famous Statue of David was born in Florence. Widely regarded as one of the greatest masterpieces in the history of Western sculpture, it was created by Michelangelo, who was only 26 years old when he began carving it. The first time I learned about David was when I was studying sketching in middle school. A plaster cast of David’s head stood in the art studio, and our teacher often said it was one of the most classic subjects for drawing practice. At the time, I only knew it as a famous plaster model and had no idea of the many revolutionary ideas and meanings that this sculpture represented.

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佛罗伦萨第一天 – Our First Day in Florence

2026年6月2日,星期二,2026北部意大利之旅的第十二天

June 2, 2026, Tuesday — Day 12 of Our Northern Italy Trip

距离民宿步行仅四分钟的老桥,总是挤满了来自世界各地的游客。不过这也不难理解,几乎每一个来到佛罗伦萨的人,都会专程来这里走一走。老桥是佛罗伦萨横跨阿尔诺河最古老、最具代表性的中世纪石拱桥。最初的桥梁是木结构的,在1333年的洪水中被冲毁后,于1345年重建为如今看到的石桥。桥上早期聚集着肉铺和杂货商,但随着美第奇家族修建了连接两岸宫殿的瓦萨里走廊,为了避免异味影响贵族通行,桥上的肉铺被迁离,自16世纪起逐渐由珠宝商和金匠取代。直到今天,桥上依然林立着珠宝店和金饰店,因此也被称为佛罗伦萨最著名的“珠宝街”。即使在二战期间的轰炸中,老桥也奇迹般地保存了下来。

Just a four-minute walk from our apartment, the Ponte Vecchio was always crowded with visitors from around the world. That’s hardly surprising, as almost everyone who comes to Florence makes a point of walking across it at least once.

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去佛罗伦萨 – Heading to Florence

2026年6月1日,星期一,2026北部意大利之旅的第十一天
June 1, 2026, Monday — Day 11 of Our Northern Italy Trip

今天又是辗转于城市之间的一天,需要搭乘三班火车前往佛罗伦萨。早上离开马纳罗拉的民宿,拖着行李一路下坡、下台阶,心情倒是轻松不少,终于不用再爬坡了。来到车站,搭上9:28的第一班火车前往拉斯佩齐亚。作为五渔村附近的重要中转站,十多分钟便抵达了。随后换乘10:17开往比萨的火车。原本不到一个小时的车程,却意外晚点,到11:20才抵达比萨。下车后,我们立刻拖着行李穿过站台寻找下一班去佛罗伦萨的火车。还好,刚走到站台边,11:30的列车也正好缓缓进站,总算有惊无险地完成了换乘。

Today was another travel day, moving from one city to another, with three train rides needed to reach Florence.

In the morning, we left our apartment in Manarola and dragged our luggage downhill and down countless steps. This time, though, it felt much easier – at least we didn’t have to climb up anymore.

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重回波托韦内雷 – Return to Portovenere

2026年5月31日,星期日,2026北部意大利之旅的第十天

May 31, 2026, Sunday — Day 10 of Our Northern Italy Trip

PJG 和他的家人曾在 1999 年来过五渔村旅行,当时就住在今天我们的目的地,波托韦内雷。因此,今天对我们来说不仅是一趟观光之旅,更是一次跨越二十多年的故地重游。早上来到码头,买了两张十点出发的往返船票,每人28欧元。上午的游客还不算太多,渡船离开码头后,十多分钟便经过了第一站奥马焦雷。

PJG and his family visited Cinque Terre back in 1999 and stayed in today’s destination, Portovenere. So for us, this was not only a sightseeing trip but also a return to a place remembered from more than twenty years ago.

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五渔村之下篇: 蒙特罗索,韦尔纳扎,科尔尼利亚 – Cinque Terre, Part 2: Monterosso, Vernazza, and Corniglia

May 30, 2026, Saturday — Day 9 of Our Northern Italy Trip

2026年5月30日,星期六,2026北部意大利之旅的第九天

今天最明显的感觉就是脚非常疼。

我们充分利用手中的五渔村卡,搭乘区域火车去看看剩下的三个村庄。五个村子之间的距离其实很近,火车每隔十几分钟就有一班,村与村之间通常只需要几分钟的车程,非常方便。难以想象这里的火车系统1874就建设完毕。

第一站是蒙特罗索。它是五渔村最北端、人口最多的村庄,也是五个村庄中规模最大的一个。历史可以追溯到9世纪的中世纪聚落。11至13世纪期间,小镇逐渐发展壮大,并在热那亚共和国统治下成为重要的农业和贸易中心。小镇分为历史悠久的老城区和较为现代的新区两部分。刚下火车时到达的是新区,这里有五渔村少见的沙滩,感觉更像一个海边度假小镇,少了几分五渔村那种依山而建的特色。沿着海边慢慢走到老城区后,熟悉的五渔村风貌才真正出现:彩色的房屋、古老的教堂、蜿蜒的小巷、有趣的小店和露天咖啡馆,一切都充满了利古里亚海岸小镇的味道。当然,这里也挤满了来自世界各地的游客,狭窄的街道上人来人往。

One thing we definitely feel today, is that our feet really hurt.

We made full use of our Cinque Terre Card and took the regional trains to visit the remaining three villages. The five villages are actually very close to one another, with trains running every few minutes. Travel time between villages is usually only a few minutes, making it extremely convenient. Unbelievably, the train system was completed in 1874!

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五渔村之上篇:马纳罗拉和里奥马焦雷 – Cinque Terre, Part 1: Manarola and Riomaggiore

2026年5月29日,星期五,2026北部意大利之旅的第八天

Friday, May 29, 2026 — Day 8 of Our Northern Italy Trip

五渔村卡是游览五渔村国家公园最实用的一种通票,分为“徒步卡”和“火车卡”两种。我们在家就买好的是火车卡,每张81欧元,可以无限次搭乘往返于拉斯佩齐亚、五渔村各小镇以及莱万托之间的地区火车;同时还包含所有收费徒步路线(包括著名的“爱之路”)、村内环保巴士、公园洗手间以及部分博物馆的使用。原本我们已经预约好了今天早上10点半去徒步“爱之路”,计划先坐火车到旁边的里奥马焦雷,再从爱之路步行返回马纳罗拉。但今天是意大利铁路系统罢工,火车运行受到影响,原本的计划也只能临时放弃。于是我决定换一种方式,独自去爬民宿对面山坡上的徒步路线。从阳台上就能看到很多人在那条小路上慢慢前行,PJG 则选择留在民宿休息,享受一下难得不用赶路的上午。

The Cinque Terre Card is the most practical pass for visiting the Cinque Terre National Park. It comes in two versions: a Hiking Card and a Train Card. We had purchased the Train Card before leaving home. At 81 euros per person, it allowed unlimited travel on regional trains between La Spezia, the Cinque Terre villages, and Levanto. It also included access to all paid hiking trails (including the famous Via dell’Amore), village shuttle buses, park restrooms, and selected museums.

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去五渔村 – Heading to Cinque Terre

2026年5月28日,星期四,2026北部意大利之旅的第七天

Thursday, May 28, 2026 — Day 7 of Our Northern Italy Trip

昨晚,五渔村民宿的主人发来消息,提醒我们从今晚9点到明晚9点,意大利铁路系统将进行全国性罢工。看到消息时,我俩还暗自庆幸:还好我们的行程安排得早。虽然今天需要换乘三趟火车,但按原计划,下午三点半左右就能抵达五渔村,理论上完全不会受到影响。

然而,意大利铁路显然比我们想象中更”自由”。

Last night, the owner of our Cinque Terre Airbnb sent us a message reminding us that Italy’s railway system would be affected by a nationwide strike from 9 PM tonight until 9 PM tomorrow. When we saw the message, we quietly congratulated ourselves on planning ahead. Although we needed to change trains three times today, our itinerary had us arriving in Cinque Terre at around 3:30 PM, well before the strike was supposed to begin. In theory, we should have been completely unaffected.

However, Italy’s rail system turned out to be even more “flexible” than we had imagined.

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三个小镇 – Three Towns


2026年5月26日,星期二,2026北部意大利之旅的第五天

Tuesday, May 26, 2026 — Day 5 of Our Northern Italy Trip

今天我们打算坐渡船去另外两个小镇逛一逛。昨天已经提前买好了今天的渡轮一日通票,17.5欧元一张,一天之内可以无限次乘坐。从瓦伦纳到贝拉焦的航程大约15分钟,湖面很平静,船慢慢划过水面,两岸的风景也在眼前一点点展开。贝拉焦是科莫湖更大的一个小镇,相比瓦伦纳少了一些小镇气质,但整体依然很漂亮。这里同样有湖景、狭窄的小巷、各式小店和石板街道,有着几百年历史的教堂和钟楼,整体更热闹一些。

Today we plan to take the ferry to visit two other towns around the lake. We had already bought day passes for the ferries yesterday — 17.5 euros each for unlimited rides throughout the day. The ride from Varenna to Bellagio took about 15 minutes. The lake was very calm, and the ferry slowly moved across the water as the scenery on both shores gradually unfolded before us.

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瓦伦纳的一天 – A Day in Varenna

2026年5月25日,星期一 ,2026北部意大利之旅的第四天

Monday, May 25, 2026 — Day 4 of Our Northern Italy Trip

因为这里白天人潮拥挤,今天早上七点多我就起床,想独自拥有这个小镇。PJG在民宿继续睡觉。果然,清晨的瓦伦纳非常安静,除了几家餐厅的工作人员开始为新一天做准备,几乎看不到游客。我和小熊慢慢走在空荡的小巷和湖边步道上,阳光洒下来,整个小镇被一层柔和的光笼罩着。没有喧闹的人群,只有湖水的微光和偶尔的脚步声,这段清晨的瓦伦纳显得格外安静,也格外美好。

Because the town gets extremely crowded during the day, I woke up a little after seven this morning, hoping to have the town to myself. So, while PJG slept, I found that sure enough, Varenna was incredibly quiet in the early morning. Aside from a few restaurant workers preparing for the new day, there were almost no tourists around.

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去科莫湖 – Going to Lake Como

2026年5月24日,星期日 ,2026北部意大利之旅的第三天

Sunday, May 24, 2026 — Day 3 of Our 2026 Northern Italy Trip

中午11点20分的火车,我们今天前往科莫湖。从民宿出发先乘地铁2号线,大约30多分钟抵达米兰中央火车站。在车站旁边的一家咖啡店买了两个羊角面包当早餐。本来想着时间还早,还可以简单逛一下这座米兰的地标建筑,它是意大利北部最重要的铁路枢纽之一,也是欧洲最大的火车站之一,建筑本身融合了多种风格,气势非常宏大。

Our train to Lake Como was scheduled for 11:20 AM today. Leaving the Airbnb, we first took Metro Line 2 and arrived at Milano Centrale railway station about thirty minutes later. At a café near the station, we bought two croissants for breakfast.

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米兰的一天 – A Day in Milan

2026年5月23日,星期六, 2026北部意大利之旅第二天

Saturday, May 23, 2026 — Day 2 of Our Northern Italy Trip

今天是我们在米兰的唯一一天。米兰作为意大利北部的交通和商业中心,经常被当作“中转城市”,但我们觉得它也许被低估了。至少昨晚在运河区看着人群流动的那一刻,就已经感受到这座城市独特的气息,热闹、松弛,又带着一点旧欧洲的浪漫,是我俩喜欢的那种感觉。今天的主要行程是米兰大教堂。我们提前在家里买好了九点的门票,26欧元包含电梯的组合票。从民宿出发,坐地铁大约25分钟就到了大教堂。

Today was our only full day in Milan. As the transportation and business hub of northern Italy, Milan is often treated as just a “transit city,” but we felt it might be underrated. At least from the moment we watched the crowds flowing through the canal district last night, we could already sense the city’s unique atmosphere – lively, relaxed, and carrying a touch of old European romance, exactly the kind of feeling we both enjoy.

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去米兰 Going to Milan

2026年5月21日,星期四 ,2026北部意大利之旅的第一天 Thursday, May 21, 2026 — Day 1 of Our 2026 Northern Italy Trip

我们的脚又开始痒了起来,两个月之前开始计划的北部意大利之旅今天正式开启。下午两点多,我们便到了旧金山国际机场,在机场西班牙国际航空的贵宾休息室里待了几个小时,就是为了一边享用免费的餐食,一边“机场办公”。

Our feet were getting itchy again – the Northern Italy trip we had started planning two months ago officially began today. We arrived at SFO a little after 2 pm and spent a few hours in the Iberia lounge, working intensely from the airport, while enjoying the complimentary food and drinks.

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