去科莫湖 – Going to Lake Como

2026年5月24日，星期日 ，2026北部意大利之旅的第三天

Sunday, May 24, 2026 — Day 3 of Our 2026 Northern Italy Trip

中午11点20分的火车，我们今天前往科莫湖。从民宿出发先乘地铁2号线，大约30多分钟抵达米兰中央火车站。在车站旁边的一家咖啡店买了两个羊角面包当早餐。本来想着时间还早，还可以简单逛一下这座米兰的地标建筑，它是意大利北部最重要的铁路枢纽之一，也是欧洲最大的火车站之一，建筑本身融合了多种风格，气势非常宏大。

Our train to Lake Como was scheduled for 11:20 AM today. Leaving the Airbnb, we first took Metro Line 2 and arrived at Milano Centrale railway station about thirty minutes later. At a café near the station, we bought two croissants for breakfast.

We originally thought we still had plenty of time and could briefly explore this Milan landmark. It is one of the most important railway hubs in northern Italy and also one of the largest train stations in Europe. The architecture blends several different styles, and the entire building feels incredibly grand and imposing.

但当我们看到自动检票口前排起的长队时，只能放弃参观的想法，直接加入队伍进入站台。人真的非常多，只能用人山人海来形容，通行非常拥挤。找到了停在第七站台的火车，便迅速上车。

But when we saw the long lines forming in front of the automatic ticket gates, we had no choice but to give up the idea of exploring and join the queue to enter the platforms instead. The crowds were enormous — the only way to describe it was a sea of people — and moving through the station was extremely congested. Once we found our train waiting at Platform 7, we quickly boarded.

我们买的是一等座车票，但没想到一整列很长的火车里，只有靠近车头的一小节车厢是一等座，其余都是二等座。我们选择了旁边二等座车厢的两个位子，感觉更宽敞一些，等我们坐下后不久，乘客陆续上车。11点20分火车准时发车，出乎意料的是，竟然有不少人没有座位，只能站在过道里，整个车厢变得非常拥挤，让我想起了小时候在国内坐绿皮火车的感觉。

We had purchased first-class tickets, but to our surprise, on this very long train only a small section near the front was designated as first class, while the rest was second class. We chose two seats in the neighboring second-class carriage because it actually felt a bit more spacious. Not long after we sat down, more and more passengers boarded.

At 11:20 AM, the train departed right on time. Unexpectedly, quite a few people ended up without seats and had to stand in the aisles. The carriage became extremely crowded, reminding me of what it felt like riding the old green trains in China when I was younger.

一个多小时的车程里，沿途风景优美，站在我旁边的意大利女孩和朋友一路聊天、笑闹，还时不时跳起了动感的舞蹈，让这段短暂的旅程也变得轻松又有趣。

During the more than hour-long journey, the scenery along the way was beautiful. The Italian girl standing beside me chatted and laughed with her friends the entire trip, occasionally even breaking into energetic little dances, making the short journey feel relaxed and full of life.

科莫湖最经典的三个小镇，正好分布在湖中央“Y”字形的交汇区域：贝拉焦位于分叉的中心位置，瓦伦纳在东岸，梅纳焦在西岸。三座小镇之间可以通过渡船轻松往来。我们把民宿选择在了瓦伦纳，据说会更安静和优美一些。下了火车，走出车站，顿时感受到这个美丽的小镇，沿着湖岸缓缓展开，色彩鲜艳的房屋、悠闲的节奏，还有许多狭窄的小巷，很有传统湖畔小镇的味道。

The three most famous towns on Lake Como are perfectly positioned around the central junction of the lake’s distinctive “Y” shape: Bellagio sits at the center where the branches divide, Varenna lies on the eastern shore, and Menaggio on the western shore. The three towns are easily connected by ferry.

We chose to stay in Varenna, which is said to be quieter and more picturesque. After getting off the train and walking out of the station, we immediately felt the charm of this beautiful lakeside town unfolding along the shore — colorful buildings, a relaxed pace of life, and countless narrow alleyways that gave it the atmosphere of a traditional lake village.

令人意外的是，这里的游客比想象中多得多。我们原本以为还不算旅游旺季，小镇应该不会太拥挤，结果到处都是人，几乎每一家餐厅和冰激凌店门口都排着长队。我们在小镇里慢慢走了一圈，除了拥挤之外，还有一个现实问题就是到处都是石头台阶，上上下下走得有点累。

What surprised us was how many tourists there were here — far more than we had expected. We had assumed it was still not quite peak travel season and that the town would not be too crowded, but instead there were people everywhere, with long lines outside nearly every restaurant and gelato shop.

We slowly wandered through the town, and besides the crowds, there was another very real challenge: stone stairways everywhere. Constantly walking up and down them became a bit exhausting.

到了晚上六点多，我们在湖边找到一家餐厅坐下，点了两杯啤酒，一边看着湖景，一边看人来人往。虽然不是我们期待的安静的科莫湖，但是景色真的很美。

Around six in the evening, we found a restaurant by the lake and sat down with two beers, watching both the scenery and the endless stream of people passing by. Although this was not the quiet Lake Como experience we had imagined, the scenery truly was beautiful.

晚饭时，我们不得不选择了中心广场旁的一家披萨店，因为湖边的餐厅几乎全部满座，只有这家店排队的人相对少一些。坐下来之后，觉得这里也很舒服。安静的广场有一种很放松的小镇氛围，落日的余晖慢慢洒在圣乔治教堂的外墙上，周围的人轻声聊天、慢慢吃饭，让人真正感受到意大利小镇那种悠闲的生活节奏。

For dinner, we ended up choosing a pizza restaurant beside the main square because nearly all of the lakeside restaurants were completely full, and this place had a relatively shorter line. Once we sat down, though, it felt very comfortable there as well.

The quiet square had a deeply relaxing small-town atmosphere. The last light of sunset slowly spread across the exterior walls of Church of San Giorgio, while people around us chatted softly and lingered over their meals. It truly felt like the laid-back rhythm of life in a small Italian town.