五渔村之下篇: 蒙特罗索,韦尔纳扎,科尔尼利亚 – Cinque Terre, Part 2: Monterosso, Vernazza, and Corniglia

May 30, 2026, Saturday — Day 9 of Our Northern Italy Trip

2026年5月30日,星期六,2026北部意大利之旅的第九天

今天最明显的感觉就是脚非常疼。

我们充分利用手中的五渔村卡,搭乘区域火车去看看剩下的三个村庄。五个村子之间的距离其实很近,火车每隔十几分钟就有一班,村与村之间通常只需要几分钟的车程,非常方便。难以想象这里的火车系统1874就建设完毕。

第一站是蒙特罗索。它是五渔村最北端、人口最多的村庄,也是五个村庄中规模最大的一个。历史可以追溯到9世纪的中世纪聚落。11至13世纪期间,小镇逐渐发展壮大,并在热那亚共和国统治下成为重要的农业和贸易中心。小镇分为历史悠久的老城区和较为现代的新区两部分。刚下火车时到达的是新区,这里有五渔村少见的沙滩,感觉更像一个海边度假小镇,少了几分五渔村那种依山而建的特色。沿着海边慢慢走到老城区后,熟悉的五渔村风貌才真正出现:彩色的房屋、古老的教堂、蜿蜒的小巷、有趣的小店和露天咖啡馆,一切都充满了利古里亚海岸小镇的味道。当然,这里也挤满了来自世界各地的游客,狭窄的街道上人来人往。

One thing we definitely feel today, is that our feet really hurt.

We made full use of our Cinque Terre Card and took the regional trains to visit the remaining three villages. The five villages are actually very close to one another, with trains running every few minutes. Travel time between villages is usually only a few minutes, making it extremely convenient. Unbelievably, the train system was completed in 1874!

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五渔村之上篇:马纳罗拉和里奥马焦雷 – Cinque Terre, Part 1: Manarola and Riomaggiore

2026年5月29日,星期五,2026北部意大利之旅的第八天

Friday, May 29, 2026 — Day 8 of Our Northern Italy Trip

五渔村卡是游览五渔村国家公园最实用的一种通票,分为“徒步卡”和“火车卡”两种。我们在家就买好的是火车卡,每张81欧元,可以无限次搭乘往返于拉斯佩齐亚、五渔村各小镇以及莱万托之间的地区火车;同时还包含所有收费徒步路线(包括著名的“爱之路”)、村内环保巴士、公园洗手间以及部分博物馆的使用。原本我们已经预约好了今天早上10点半去徒步“爱之路”,计划先坐火车到旁边的里奥马焦雷,再从爱之路步行返回马纳罗拉。但今天是意大利铁路系统罢工,火车运行受到影响,原本的计划也只能临时放弃。于是我决定换一种方式,独自去爬民宿对面山坡上的徒步路线。从阳台上就能看到很多人在那条小路上慢慢前行,PJG 则选择留在民宿休息,享受一下难得不用赶路的上午。

The Cinque Terre Card is the most practical pass for visiting the Cinque Terre National Park. It comes in two versions: a Hiking Card and a Train Card. We had purchased the Train Card before leaving home. At 81 euros per person, it allowed unlimited travel on regional trains between La Spezia, the Cinque Terre villages, and Levanto. It also included access to all paid hiking trails (including the famous Via dell’Amore), village shuttle buses, park restrooms, and selected museums.

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去五渔村 – Heading to Cinque Terre

2026年5月28日,星期四,2026北部意大利之旅的第七天

Thursday, May 28, 2026 — Day 7 of Our Northern Italy Trip

昨晚,五渔村民宿的主人发来消息,提醒我们从今晚9点到明晚9点,意大利铁路系统将进行全国性罢工。看到消息时,我俩还暗自庆幸:还好我们的行程安排得早。虽然今天需要换乘三趟火车,但按原计划,下午三点半左右就能抵达五渔村,理论上完全不会受到影响。

然而,意大利铁路显然比我们想象中更”自由”。

Last night, the owner of our Cinque Terre Airbnb sent us a message reminding us that Italy’s railway system would be affected by a nationwide strike from 9 PM tonight until 9 PM tomorrow. When we saw the message, we quietly congratulated ourselves on planning ahead. Although we needed to change trains three times today, our itinerary had us arriving in Cinque Terre at around 3:30 PM, well before the strike was supposed to begin. In theory, we should have been completely unaffected.

However, Italy’s rail system turned out to be even more “flexible” than we had imagined.

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三个小镇 – Three Towns


2026年5月26日,星期二,2026北部意大利之旅的第五天

Tuesday, May 26, 2026 — Day 5 of Our Northern Italy Trip

今天我们打算坐渡船去另外两个小镇逛一逛。昨天已经提前买好了今天的渡轮一日通票,17.5欧元一张,一天之内可以无限次乘坐。从瓦伦纳到贝拉焦的航程大约15分钟,湖面很平静,船慢慢划过水面,两岸的风景也在眼前一点点展开。贝拉焦是科莫湖更大的一个小镇,相比瓦伦纳少了一些小镇气质,但整体依然很漂亮。这里同样有湖景、狭窄的小巷、各式小店和石板街道,有着几百年历史的教堂和钟楼,整体更热闹一些。

Today we plan to take the ferry to visit two other towns around the lake. We had already bought day passes for the ferries yesterday — 17.5 euros each for unlimited rides throughout the day. The ride from Varenna to Bellagio took about 15 minutes. The lake was very calm, and the ferry slowly moved across the water as the scenery on both shores gradually unfolded before us.

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瓦伦纳的一天 – A Day in Varenna

2026年5月25日,星期一 ,2026北部意大利之旅的第四天

Monday, May 25, 2026 — Day 4 of Our Northern Italy Trip

因为这里白天人潮拥挤,今天早上七点多我就起床,想独自拥有这个小镇。PJG在民宿继续睡觉。果然,清晨的瓦伦纳非常安静,除了几家餐厅的工作人员开始为新一天做准备,几乎看不到游客。我和小熊慢慢走在空荡的小巷和湖边步道上,阳光洒下来,整个小镇被一层柔和的光笼罩着。没有喧闹的人群,只有湖水的微光和偶尔的脚步声,这段清晨的瓦伦纳显得格外安静,也格外美好。

Because the town gets extremely crowded during the day, I woke up a little after seven this morning, hoping to have the town to myself. So, while PJG slept, I found that sure enough, Varenna was incredibly quiet in the early morning. Aside from a few restaurant workers preparing for the new day, there were almost no tourists around.

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去科莫湖 – Going to Lake Como

2026年5月24日,星期日 ,2026北部意大利之旅的第三天

Sunday, May 24, 2026 — Day 3 of Our 2026 Northern Italy Trip

中午11点20分的火车,我们今天前往科莫湖。从民宿出发先乘地铁2号线,大约30多分钟抵达米兰中央火车站。在车站旁边的一家咖啡店买了两个羊角面包当早餐。本来想着时间还早,还可以简单逛一下这座米兰的地标建筑,它是意大利北部最重要的铁路枢纽之一,也是欧洲最大的火车站之一,建筑本身融合了多种风格,气势非常宏大。

Our train to Lake Como was scheduled for 11:20 AM today. Leaving the Airbnb, we first took Metro Line 2 and arrived at Milano Centrale railway station about thirty minutes later. At a café near the station, we bought two croissants for breakfast.

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米兰的一天 – A Day in Milan

2026年5月23日,星期六, 2026北部意大利之旅第二天

Saturday, May 23, 2026 — Day 2 of Our Northern Italy Trip

今天是我们在米兰的唯一一天。米兰作为意大利北部的交通和商业中心,经常被当作“中转城市”,但我们觉得它也许被低估了。至少昨晚在运河区看着人群流动的那一刻,就已经感受到这座城市独特的气息,热闹、松弛,又带着一点旧欧洲的浪漫,是我俩喜欢的那种感觉。今天的主要行程是米兰大教堂。我们提前在家里买好了九点的门票,26欧元包含电梯的组合票。从民宿出发,坐地铁大约25分钟就到了大教堂。

Today was our only full day in Milan. As the transportation and business hub of northern Italy, Milan is often treated as just a “transit city,” but we felt it might be underrated. At least from the moment we watched the crowds flowing through the canal district last night, we could already sense the city’s unique atmosphere – lively, relaxed, and carrying a touch of old European romance, exactly the kind of feeling we both enjoy.

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去米兰 Going to Milan

2026年5月21日,星期四 ,2026北部意大利之旅的第一天 Thursday, May 21, 2026 — Day 1 of Our 2026 Northern Italy Trip

我们的脚又开始痒了起来,两个月之前开始计划的北部意大利之旅今天正式开启。下午两点多,我们便到了旧金山国际机场,在机场西班牙国际航空的贵宾休息室里待了几个小时,就是为了一边享用免费的餐食,一边“机场办公”。

Our feet were getting itchy again – the Northern Italy trip we had started planning two months ago officially began today. We arrived at SFO a little after 2 pm and spent a few hours in the Iberia lounge, working intensely from the airport, while enjoying the complimentary food and drinks.

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