Manarola – Our Trips Around The World

重回波托韦内雷 – Return to Portovenere

2026年5月31日，星期日，2026北部意大利之旅的第十天

May 31, 2026, Sunday — Day 10 of Our Northern Italy Trip

PJG 和他的家人曾在 1999 年来过五渔村旅行，当时就住在今天我们的目的地，波托韦内雷。因此，今天对我们来说不仅是一趟观光之旅，更是一次跨越二十多年的故地重游。早上来到码头，买了两张十点出发的往返船票，每人28欧元。上午的游客还不算太多，渡船离开码头后，十多分钟便经过了第一站奥马焦雷。

PJG and his family visited Cinque Terre back in 1999 and stayed in today’s destination, Portovenere. So for us, this was not only a sightseeing trip but also a return to a place remembered from more than twenty years ago.

五渔村之下篇: 蒙特罗索，韦尔纳扎，科尔尼利亚 – Cinque Terre, Part 2: Monterosso, Vernazza, and Corniglia

May 30, 2026, Saturday — Day 9 of Our Northern Italy Trip

2026年5月30日，星期六，2026北部意大利之旅的第九天

今天最明显的感觉就是脚非常疼。

我们充分利用手中的五渔村卡，搭乘区域火车去看看剩下的三个村庄。五个村子之间的距离其实很近，火车每隔十几分钟就有一班，村与村之间通常只需要几分钟的车程，非常方便。难以想象这里的火车系统1874就建设完毕。

第一站是蒙特罗索。它是五渔村最北端、人口最多的村庄，也是五个村庄中规模最大的一个。历史可以追溯到9世纪的中世纪聚落。11至13世纪期间，小镇逐渐发展壮大，并在热那亚共和国统治下成为重要的农业和贸易中心。小镇分为历史悠久的老城区和较为现代的新区两部分。刚下火车时到达的是新区，这里有五渔村少见的沙滩，感觉更像一个海边度假小镇，少了几分五渔村那种依山而建的特色。沿着海边慢慢走到老城区后，熟悉的五渔村风貌才真正出现：彩色的房屋、古老的教堂、蜿蜒的小巷、有趣的小店和露天咖啡馆，一切都充满了利古里亚海岸小镇的味道。当然，这里也挤满了来自世界各地的游客，狭窄的街道上人来人往。

One thing we definitely feel today, is that our feet really hurt.

We made full use of our Cinque Terre Card and took the regional trains to visit the remaining three villages. The five villages are actually very close to one another, with trains running every few minutes. Travel time between villages is usually only a few minutes, making it extremely convenient. Unbelievably, the train system was completed in 1874!

五渔村之上篇：马纳罗拉和里奥马焦雷 – Cinque Terre, Part 1: Manarola and Riomaggiore

2026年5月29日，星期五，2026北部意大利之旅的第八天

Friday, May 29, 2026 — Day 8 of Our Northern Italy Trip

五渔村卡是游览五渔村国家公园最实用的一种通票，分为“徒步卡”和“火车卡”两种。我们在家就买好的是火车卡，每张81欧元，可以无限次搭乘往返于拉斯佩齐亚、五渔村各小镇以及莱万托之间的地区火车；同时还包含所有收费徒步路线（包括著名的“爱之路”）、村内环保巴士、公园洗手间以及部分博物馆的使用。原本我们已经预约好了今天早上10点半去徒步“爱之路”，计划先坐火车到旁边的里奥马焦雷，再从爱之路步行返回马纳罗拉。但今天是意大利铁路系统罢工，火车运行受到影响，原本的计划也只能临时放弃。于是我决定换一种方式，独自去爬民宿对面山坡上的徒步路线。从阳台上就能看到很多人在那条小路上慢慢前行，PJG 则选择留在民宿休息，享受一下难得不用赶路的上午。

The Cinque Terre Card is the most practical pass for visiting the Cinque Terre National Park. It comes in two versions: a Hiking Card and a Train Card. We had purchased the Train Card before leaving home. At 81 euros per person, it allowed unlimited travel on regional trains between La Spezia, the Cinque Terre villages, and Levanto. It also included access to all paid hiking trails (including the famous Via dell’Amore), village shuttle buses, park restrooms, and selected museums.

去五渔村 – Heading to Cinque Terre

2026年5月28日，星期四，2026北部意大利之旅的第七天

Thursday, May 28, 2026 — Day 7 of Our Northern Italy Trip

昨晚，五渔村民宿的主人发来消息，提醒我们从今晚9点到明晚9点，意大利铁路系统将进行全国性罢工。看到消息时，我俩还暗自庆幸：还好我们的行程安排得早。虽然今天需要换乘三趟火车，但按原计划，下午三点半左右就能抵达五渔村，理论上完全不会受到影响。

然而，意大利铁路显然比我们想象中更”自由”。

Last night, the owner of our Cinque Terre Airbnb sent us a message reminding us that Italy’s railway system would be affected by a nationwide strike from 9 PM tonight until 9 PM tomorrow. When we saw the message, we quietly congratulated ourselves on planning ahead. Although we needed to change trains three times today, our itinerary had us arriving in Cinque Terre at around 3:30 PM, well before the strike was supposed to begin. In theory, we should have been completely unaffected.

However, Italy’s rail system turned out to be even more “flexible” than we had imagined.