南半球到东方的旅程的第二段 – To the Eastern Delight

11/21-22, 2025 星期五和星期六, Friday & Saturday, the 20th & 21st day of our Down Under to Eastern Delight trip

周五的行程很简单,有点像“过渡日”。我们在 Ibis CBD旅店订了两晚,但真正的计划是在晚上 9 点半退房去赶凌晨飞往清迈的航班。

Friday’s schedule was simple, with the feeling of a “transition day.” We booked two nights at the Ibis CBD, with the plan to check out at 9:30 pm to catch our early-morning flight to Chiang Mai.

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两个米其林推荐 – A Tale of Two Michelins

11/23/2025 星期日, Sunday, the 22nd day of our Down Under to Eastern Delight trip

这段旅程的第二部分在泰国慢慢展开,不赶行程,不刻意打卡,只是放慢步调,让自己沉在这里的时光与泰式味道里。今天早上的第一件事,就是去附近的洗衣店,把旅行中的疲惫一并交给滚筒机。我们选择了三小时的加急服务,每公斤 100 泰铢,价格公道。
早餐是在酒店享用的自助餐,西式和亚洲式一应俱全,正好满足我们俩不同的口味,吃得很满意。

The second part of our journey is unfolding slowly here in Thailand. No rushing, no checklists – just easing into the pace, letting ourselves sink into the time and the Thai flavor. The first task of the morning was to drop off our laundry at a nearby shop, handing over both the clothes and a bit of travel fatigue to the spinning machines. We chose the three-hour express service at 100 baht per kilo, a fair price.

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清迈闲逛第二天 – Wandering in Chiang Mai

11/24/2025 星期一, Monday, the 23rd day of our Down Under to Eastern Delight trip

清迈是一座坐落在泰国北部群山之间的古老城市,建于公元 1296 年,曾是独立的兰纳王国的都城,直到 1558 年才结束它作为王都的历史。如今人们所说的古城,是一个被完整护城河包围的方形区域。今天上午,我们从古城的东侧一路走到湄平河畔,慢悠悠地穿过大街小巷,看见了这个城市很多真实、日常的一面。

Chiang Mai is an ancient city nestled among the mountains of northern Thailand. Founded in 1296, it was once the capital of the independent Lanna Kingdom, a role it held until 1558. Today, the “Old City” refers to the square-shaped area still encircled by a complete moat.

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清迈古城护城河徒步 – Around the Moat

11/25/2025 星期二, Tuesday, the 24th day of our Down Under to Eastern Delight trip

上午因为新加坡的分公司,不得不进行了一个小时的网络会议,还好时差对我来说没问题。今天我俩打算轻松地围绕古城的护城河走一圈。沿着护城河走,在四个转角和四座城门附近,都能看到断断续续的砖墙残迹。这些最初由孟莱王在1296年建立清迈时建造,用来抵御外敌。当年城墙应当厚重完整,在1558年缅甸攻占清迈后,大面积城墙被毁,随后数百年间经历了战火、荒废与风化。我以前不知道,清迈曾被缅甸统治过将近 200 年。

This morning, because of a meeting with the Singapore branch, I had to join a one-hour online call. Luckily, the time difference didn’t effect me! Today the two of us planned a walk around the Old City moat.

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清迈最后一天 – The Last day in Chiang Mai

11/26/2025 星期三, Wednesday, the 25th day of our Down Under to Eastern Delight trip

又是轻松的一天。上午我们在酒店里悠闲地休息,中午则去了一家非常接地气的小饭馆吃午饭。这家店是我在谷歌地图上找到的,离酒店很近,评价里大家都夸食物好吃,但同时也抱怨鸽子太多,会在店里到处飞。我们决定先去探探,如果真的有鸽子,就立刻转身离开。结果到店后一只鸽子都没看到,于是放心地坐下点菜。小店基本上就是一个女人在撑起全场,她既是厨师、服务员,又负责接外卖,忙得团团转,整个店就是她一个人的世界。刚点完菜,正等她忙到我们这一单时,一只鸽子突然翩然而至,直接飞进店里,落在房梁上。有位顾客上前把它赶走,之后也没再出现第二只。至于食物,味道不错,价格便宜,三道菜加起来才 140 泰铢。

It was another easygoing day in Chiang Mai, and our last one here. We spent the morning relaxing at the hotel, then for lunch, walked to a very down-to-earth little eatery called Mee Gin. I had found it on Google Maps, close to the hotel, well-reviewed for tasty food, but with repeated complaints that the place was full of pigeons flying around!! We decided to check it out first and run away immediately if we saw any birds inside!

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到达曼谷 – Arriving in Bangkok

11/27/2025 星期四, Thursday, the 27th day of our Down Under to Eastern Delight trip

又是换城市的一天。虽然从清迈飞到曼谷只要一个多小时,但我们最终抵达曼谷酒店时已经是傍晚五点多了。原定 12:15 的航班延误了整整一个小时,飞机直到 1:55 才起飞。清迈机场的设计也实在让人无奈:登机和下机居然走同一条通道。正在排队登机的人,正如果遇上其他航班下飞机的乘客,只能原地卡住等那些人先过去。办理托运更是繁琐,第一步在机器上打印登机牌和行李牌;第二步走到另一个机器称重打印收据;第三步再排队把行李交给人工柜台。现场拥挤、混乱,让人哭笑不得。

Another day, another city. Although the flight from Chiang Mai to Bangkok takes just over an hour, it was already past five in the evening by the time we finally reached our hotel in Bangkok.

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一顿午餐 – All For a Lunch?

11/28/2025 星期五,Friday, the 27th day of our Down Under to Eastern Delight trip

上午先去洗衣店把衣服送去加急清洗,价格跟清迈一样,每公斤 100 泰铢。回到酒店后有时间把行李和房间整理好。十一点多,叫了 Grab 去一家我在油管上看到,由一位非常有名的泰国厨师Pam强烈推荐的餐厅。这一路上也立刻想起曼谷交通有多糟糕,不到 8 公里的距离,竟然花了一个多小时才抵达。到了店门口发现客满,等到一点多才终于轮到我们。据Pam介绍,这家店主打的是桐艾府料理。我之前完全没听说过这个地方,打开谷歌地图一查,才发现桐艾府位于泰国最东部,靠近柬埔寨,是一个海产丰富的小府。我们点了那位厨师推荐的三道菜,其中最惊艳的是那道沙拉:沙拉酱用花生芝麻糖,青柠汁和泰式辣椒,酸、甜、辣平衡得刚刚好,非常好吃。

In the morning we dropped our laundry off for an express wash, with the same price as in Chiang Mai — 100 baht per kilo. After returning to the hotel, we had some time to tidy up our luggage and the room. Then, a little after eleven, we called a Grab to a restaurant I’d seen on YouTube, strongly recommended by a very famous Thai chef, “Pam”. The ride immediately reminded us how bad Bangkok traffic can be — less than 10 km (6 miles) took more than an hour.

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一次旧地重游 – A Familiar Place

11/30/2025 星期日,Sunday, the 29th day of our Down Under to Eastern Delight trip


2017年我们第一次来曼谷时,住在空讪区的一家民宿,所在的大楼 The River Condominium 就在湄南河畔。那时每次外出,都要搭乘大楼自家的小船横渡河面去对岸玩。今天我们特地坐上黄旗船来到空讪区对岸,重新走一遍当年的路线,也顺便看看那些我们曾常去的小饭店们。岁月带来了不少变化:港口附近的小摊贩不见了,一个熟悉的小饭店已经变成了按摩店,只有 Jack’s 酒吧依旧在那里,样子也还是当年的模样。

In 2017, on our first trip to Bangkok, we stayed at a AirBNB in the Krung Thon Buri area, in a building called The River Condominium right on the Chao Phraya River.

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曼谷的最后一天 – Last Day in Bangkok

12/01/2025 星期一,Monday, the 30th day of our Down Under to Eastern Delight trip

某人脚上顶着几个水泡,仍然坚持徒步去中国城逛一圈。一路上我们放慢脚步,尽量沿着阴凉处前行,走走停停,大约 50 分钟后到了中国城。曼谷的中国城,最早可以追溯到 18 世纪,当时为了修建大皇宫,原本居住在王宫附近的华人商贩被迁至此地,自此逐渐形成了如今繁荣的商业区。两百多年过去,中国城依旧保持着那股蓬勃的生命力:金铺、药材店、街边小吃、炒菜的火光、中文招牌与泰文交错,层层叠叠地铺满整条街。无论是本地人、做生意的人,还是来自世界各地的游客,都把这里挤得熙熙攘攘,热闹非凡。

Someone was walking around with several blisters on their feet but still insisted on making the trek to Chinatown. We slowed our pace, staying in the shade whenever we could, stopping now and then, and after about fifty minutes we reached Chinatown.

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