徒步墨尔本街区 – Walking in Melbourne

11/9/2025, 星期日， Sunday

上面的照片看起来会非常有趣吧？那是我们今天原本的计划。可惜早上又在下雨，去坐普芬比利蒸汽火车的票早在家里就买好了。那是一条穿越森林山谷的老式蒸汽火车，很多人说是来墨尔本最值得体验的项目。可一大早看着窗外淅淅沥沥的雨，再想到来回路上要花四个多小时，还得赶特定时间的车，我们最后还是放弃了。虽然有点遗憾，只能安慰自己——别被沉没成本绑住。

可下雨天也不该浪费。于是我们，打着伞出门，去感受这座城市在雨中的样子。

The photo above would have been so much fun, right? That was our original plan for today. Unfortunately, it was raining again in the morning, even though we had already bought tickets back home for the Puffing Billy steam train — an old-fashioned train that runs through forested valleys and is often said to be one of the must-do experiences in Melbourne.

But as we looked out the window at the pouring rain and thought about the four-hour round trip and the need to catch a specific departure, we decided to give it up. A bit of a pity, but we comforted ourselves with the thought: don’t let sunk costs trap you.

Still, a rainy day shouldn’t go to waste. So, with umbrellas in hand, we headed out to experience the city in the rain.

第一站是霍西尔巷， 一条以街头艺术和涂鸦闻名的小巷，始于上世纪90年代，是墨尔本最具代表性的艺术地标之一。整面墙都被鲜艳的涂鸦覆盖——层层叠叠、色彩跳跃，雨水顺着墙面流淌，把喷漆的颜料映得更亮，巷子里只有雨声在回荡，好处就是没有游客。

Our first stop was Hosier Lane, a small alley famous for its street art and graffiti. It began in the 1990s and has since become one of Melbourne’s most iconic artistic landmarks. The walls are completely covered with vibrant layers of graffiti — overlapping, bursting with color. Rainwater streamed down the walls, making the paint glisten even more vividly. The only sound was the rain echoing through the alley — the upside of the weather was that there were no other tourists.

从巷子出来，我们一路步行去了圣派翠克大教堂，一座19世纪的哥特式建筑，尖塔直插云端，地上的积水映出它的身影。可惜当时教堂内正在做祈祷仪式，不让拍照片。

Leaving the alley, we walked all the way to St. Patrick’s Cathedral — a 19th-century Gothic structure with spires that pierce the sky. Rain water on the ground reflected its towering silhouette. Unfortunately, a prayer service was taking place inside at the time, so photos weren’t allowed.

墨尔本的天气果然如传说般多变——刚走出教堂，乌云忽然散开，一缕阳光从厚厚的云层中落下。我们加快脚步，沿着公园的小径走向皇家展览馆。皇家展览馆建于1880年，为当年的墨尔本国际博览会而兴建，是澳大利亚第一个被列入世界遗产名录的建筑，气势恢宏，像一位不老的绅士，静静伫立在花园中，看尽百年风云。

Melbourne’s weather truly lives up to its reputation for unpredictability — just as we stepped out of the cathedral, the dark clouds suddenly parted and a beam of sunlight broke through the thick sky. We quickened our pace along the park path toward the Royal Exhibition Building. Built in 1880 for the Melbourne International Exhibition, it was the first building in Australia to be inscribed on the World Heritage List. Grand and dignified, it stands quietly in the gardens like an ageless gentleman, having witnessed more than a century of change.

我们追的那部澳大利亚轻喜剧《律师菲斯克》的背景就在墨尔本，今天特意去了剧里的律师事务所所在的那栋建筑。没想到窗上还残留着剧里事务所的名字。

The Australian comedy we’ve been following, Fisk, is set in Melbourne, and today we made a special trip to see the area where the law firm in the show is located. To our surprise, the firm’s name from the series was still visible on the window.

附近找了家越南餐厅吃了简单的午饭，越南春卷和三文治。下午，我心情一好，给自己买了一双UGG鞋。价格比美国便宜很多，顿时觉得自己赚到了一个冬天的温暖。

Nearby, we found a Vietnamese restaurant and had a simple lunch — spring rolls and a banh mi sandwich. In the afternoon, feeling cheerful, I treated myself to a pair of UGG boots. They were much cheaper than in the U.S., and I felt as if I’d just bought myself a whole winter’s worth of warmth.

傍晚去了河对岸的Southgate，在露台上点了啤酒和一杯椰子玛格丽塔。天色渐暗，很多小游船来回穿梭，很享受这种放松的感觉。

In the evening, we went to Southgate across the Yarra river and ordered a beer and a coconut margarita on the terrace. As dusk settled, small boats glided back and forth on the water, and we fully enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere.

晚餐选在一家泰国餐厅，终于吃到了澳洲的本地鱼——尖吻鲈，肉质细腻，当然泰国菜一如既往地令人满足。意外是，墨尔本的餐厅在周日和公共假日都会加收10%-15%的附加费，昨晚在那家日本餐厅也被加收了10%的附加费，当时没有在意，今天的服务员确切地高速了我们。

For dinner, we chose a Thai restaurant, Dodee Paidang, and finally got to try Australia’s local fish — barramundi. The flesh was delicate, and the Thai flavors were, as always, wonderfully satisfying. One surprise: restaurants in Melbourne add a 10–15% surcharge on Sundays and public holidays. Last night’s Japanese restaurant had added 10% too, though we hadn’t noticed at the time — today our server confirmed it clearly.

今天的天气晴雨交替，寒意逼人。某人甚至穿上了冬天的棉衣。我们原以为来到温暖的南半球，没想到气候多变，倒像是回到了旧金山。

Today the weather alternated between sun and rain, with a biting chill in the air. Someone even put on his winter jacket. We had expected warm days in the southern hemisphere, but the changeable climate made it feel more like we were back in San Francisco.

Ok, you want another bear video? 想看小熊今天做了什么吗？