去五渔村 – Heading to Cinque Terre

2026年5月28日，星期四，2026北部意大利之旅的第七天

Thursday, May 28, 2026 — Day 7 of Our Northern Italy Trip

昨晚，五渔村民宿的主人发来消息，提醒我们从今晚9点到明晚9点，意大利铁路系统将进行全国性罢工。看到消息时，我俩还暗自庆幸：还好我们的行程安排得早。虽然今天需要换乘三趟火车，但按原计划，下午三点半左右就能抵达五渔村，理论上完全不会受到影响。

然而，意大利铁路显然比我们想象中更”自由”。

Last night, the owner of our Cinque Terre Airbnb sent us a message reminding us that Italy’s railway system would be affected by a nationwide strike from 9 PM tonight until 9 PM tomorrow. When we saw the message, we quietly congratulated ourselves on planning ahead. Although we needed to change trains three times today, our itinerary had us arriving in Cinque Terre at around 3:30 PM, well before the strike was supposed to begin. In theory, we should have been completely unaffected.

However, Italy’s rail system turned out to be even more “flexible” than we had imagined.

今天早上七点多起床后，我们开始上网查看火车运行情况，结果发现，原本买好的10:35那班火车，似乎已经不再前往米兰中央火车站了。很难想象，明明晚上九点才开始罢工，早上十点多的列车居然已经开始受到影响。为了保险起见，我们提前离开民宿，直奔火车站。果然，情况和网上显示的一样。工作人员告诉我们，去米兰的火车现在只开到雷科，之后需要转乘大巴前往米兰。如果继续坐10:35那班车，到达米兰时大约已经12:40，我们一定会错过12:10开往五渔村的下一班火车。工作人员随后说如果改坐9:35的火车，一切顺利的话，我们会在12:07抵达米兰中央火车站，距离下一班车发车，只剩下3分钟。

三分钟。听起来几乎像不可能完成的任务。

但我们没有太多犹豫，立刻决定改签。在自动售票机前重新买了两张车票，14.8欧元。顺利登上第一班火车后，我们担心万一中间的大巴稍微晚一点，后面的所有行程可能都会崩掉。于是，我们索性又买了两张13:15去五渔村的后备车票。这样即使错过12:10那班，至少还有下一班能坐。

到了雷科后，一个工作人员告诉我们去 TR1 搭去米兰的大巴。结果按照他指的方向走过去，我们却上了一辆看起来像轻轨的小火车。旁边一位乘客告诉我们，这车其实是去米兰加里波底门车站的，之后还得再换车去米兰中央火车站。

好吧……原来他们口中的“大巴”其实是另一趟火车。

After waking up a little after 7 AM, we checked the train schedules online and discovered that our original 10:35 train no longer appeared to be going all the way to Milan Central Station. It was hard to understand how a train departing at 10:35 in the morning could already be affected by a strike that was not scheduled to begin until 9 PM. To be safe, we left the Airbnb early and headed straight to the station.

Sure enough, the situation was exactly as the website had indicated. A staff member told us that trains to Milan were now only running as far as Lecco, where passengers would need to transfer to a bus for the rest of the journey. If we stayed with our original 10:35 departure, we would not reach Milan until about 12:40, which meant we would definitely miss our 12:10 train to Cinque Terre.

The staff member suggested taking the 9:35 train instead. If everything went smoothly, we would arrive at Milan Central Station at 12:07—just three minutes before our connecting train departed.

Three minutes. It sounded almost impossible.

But we didn’t have much choice, so we immediately decided to switch. At the ticket machine, we purchased two new tickets for €14.80. Once we were safely aboard the first train, we started worrying that even a small delay in the middle of the journey could cause the entire plan to fall apart. To be safe, we also bought two backup tickets for the 1:15 PM train to Cinque Terre. That way, even if we missed the 12:10 departure, we would still have another option.

After arriving in Lecco, a railway employee directed us to “TR1” to catch the bus to Milan. Following his instructions, we walked over and boarded what looked very much like a light-rail train. Another passenger then informed us that this was actually a train to Milan Porta Garibaldi Station, and that we would need yet another transfer to reach Milan Central Station.

Well then…

Apparently, the “bus” they had been talking about was actually another train.

这列慢悠悠的小火车，一路摇摇晃晃地往米兰前进。一个多小时后，11点50左右，我们终于抵达米兰加里波底门车站。下车后快速转战地铁2号线，两站之后到达米兰中央火车站。进站、找站台、上车，整个过程一气呵成。终于，我们成功登上了停在17号站台、开往莱万托的城际列车。

This slow-moving little train rattled its way toward Milan. A little after 11:50 AM, more than an hour later, we finally arrived at Milan Porta Garibaldi Station. After getting off, we quickly transferred to Metro Line 2 and, two stops later, reached Milan Central Station.

From there, everything happened in one smooth rush: into the station, find the platform, and board the train. At last, we successfully made it onto the Intercity train waiting at Platform 17, bound for Levanto.

真正坐下来后发现，我和 PJG 拍手庆祝，我们居然还剩下10分钟的余裕。

原本一路提着的那口气，终于松了下来。更令人意外的是，PJG 还迅速尝试退掉了两个多小时前买的备用火车票，没想到125美元竟然真的成功退款了。接下来的三个小时，火车一路沿着意大利北部与海岸线前进。下午，我们终于抵达莱万托，一个紧邻五渔村的小镇，也是很多人中转的地方。下车后，需要寻找下一班前往马纳罗拉的区域列车。结果刚走出站台，就发现它已经停在对面的轨道上。我们立刻拖着行李冲了过去。更令人舒服的是，这班车里居然几乎没有乘客。二十五分钟后，我们终于按照原计划的时间，顺利抵达了五渔村的马纳罗拉。

Once we finally sat down, PJG and I exchanged a celebratory high-five. Somehow, we had actually made it with ten minutes to spare.

The tension we had been carrying all morning finally melted away. Even more surprisingly, PJG quickly tried to refund the $125 backup train tickets we had purchased more than two hours earlier, and to our amazement, the refund actually went through!

For the next three hours, the train rolled through northern Italy, much of the route following the coastline. In the afternoon, we finally arrived in Levanto, a town just north of Cinque Terre and a common transfer point for travelers heading there.

After getting off the train, we needed to find the regional train to Manarola. As soon as we stepped off the platform, our next train was waiting on the track directly opposite us. We immediately rolled our luggage across and boarded. Even better, the train was almost empty.

Twenty-five minutes later, we finally arrived in Manarola, right on schedule and exactly as originally planned.

这一整天原本随时可能崩盘的旅程，居然最后被我们硬生生“救”了回来。

A journey that had seemed on the verge of disaster at any moment somehow ended with us successfully rescuing it and getting everything back on track.

然而，挑战还没结束。拖着行李往民宿走的时候，我们才发现，马纳罗拉的陡坡和石阶，甚至比瓦伦纳还夸张。一路上拖着箱子不断爬坡，累得气喘吁吁，几乎怀疑人生。

However, the challenges were not over yet. As we dragged our luggage toward the Airbnb, we quickly discovered that Manarola’s steep hills and stairways were even more extreme than we had read about. Pulling our suitcases uphill the entire way left us exhausted and out of breath, and at times we seriously questioned our apartment decision.

但当终于走进民宿、推开阳台门的那一刻，所有疲惫好像又突然值得了。眼前是层层堆叠的彩色房屋，远处就是蔚蓝的大海。整个马纳罗拉像挂在悬崖边上一样，在阳光下闪闪发亮。

But the moment we finally stepped into the Airbnb and opened the balcony door, all the exhaustion suddenly felt worthwhile. Before us were layers of colorful houses stacked upon one another, with the deep blue sea stretching out in the distance. The entire village of Manarola seemed to cling to the cliffs, sparkling in the sunlight.