五渔村之下篇: 蒙特罗索，韦尔纳扎，科尔尼利亚 – Cinque Terre, Part 2: Monterosso, Vernazza, and Corniglia

May 30, 2026, Saturday — Day 9 of Our Northern Italy Trip

2026年5月30日，星期六，2026北部意大利之旅的第九天

今天最明显的感觉就是脚非常疼。

我们充分利用手中的五渔村卡，搭乘区域火车去看看剩下的三个村庄。五个村子之间的距离其实很近，火车每隔十几分钟就有一班，村与村之间通常只需要几分钟的车程，非常方便。难以想象这里的火车系统1874就建设完毕。

第一站是蒙特罗索。它是五渔村最北端、人口最多的村庄，也是五个村庄中规模最大的一个。历史可以追溯到9世纪的中世纪聚落。11至13世纪期间，小镇逐渐发展壮大，并在热那亚共和国统治下成为重要的农业和贸易中心。小镇分为历史悠久的老城区和较为现代的新区两部分。刚下火车时到达的是新区，这里有五渔村少见的沙滩，感觉更像一个海边度假小镇，少了几分五渔村那种依山而建的特色。沿着海边慢慢走到老城区后，熟悉的五渔村风貌才真正出现：彩色的房屋、古老的教堂、蜿蜒的小巷、有趣的小店和露天咖啡馆，一切都充满了利古里亚海岸小镇的味道。当然，这里也挤满了来自世界各地的游客，狭窄的街道上人来人往。

One thing we definitely feel today, is that our feet really hurt.

We made full use of our Cinque Terre Card and took the regional trains to visit the remaining three villages. The five villages are actually very close to one another, with trains running every few minutes. Travel time between villages is usually only a few minutes, making it extremely convenient. Unbelievably, the train system was completed in 1874!

Our first stop was Monterosso. It is the northern most village in Cinque Terre, the most populous, and also the largest of the five. Its history dates back to a medieval settlement founded in the 9th century. Between the 11th and 13th centuries, the town gradually expanded and became an important agricultural and trading center under the rule of the Republic of Genoa.

The town is divided into two parts: the historic old town and the more modern district. When we stepped off the train, we arrived in the newer area, where one of the few sandy beaches in Cinque Terre is located. It felt more like a seaside resort town and lacked some of the dramatic hillside character that defines the other Cinque Terre villages.

As we slowly walked along the waterfront toward the old town, the familiar Cinque Terre atmosphere finally appeared: colorful houses, ancient churches, winding alleyways, charming little shops, and outdoor cafés. Everything was filled with the character of a Ligurian coastal village. Of course, it was also packed with visitors from around the world, and the narrow streets were crowded with people.

建于13至14世纪的圣若望洗者堂 – The Church of Saint John the Baptist, built in the 13th and 14th centuries.

第二站是韦尔纳扎。它是五渔村中从北往南的第二个村庄，坐落在海滨岩石岬角上，四周被独特的梯田环绕。这里的历史可以追溯到罗马时期，并在13世纪并入热那亚共和国，至今仍保留着由多里亚城堡、圆形瞭望塔和贝尔福尔特堡垒组成的古代海上防御遗迹。相比之下，这里和我们所在的马纳罗拉有些相似，同样是彩色房屋依山而建，但入海口更宽阔一些，港湾也更开阔。小镇的地标包括带八角形钟楼的圣玛格丽特教堂，以及山上的圆形瞭望塔和贝尔福尔特堡垒。

Our second stop was Vernazza. It is the second village in Cinque Terre from north to south, situated on a rocky promontory along the coast and surrounded by distinctive terraced hillsides. Its history dates back to Roman times, and it became part of the Republic of Genoa in the 13th century. To this day, it preserves ancient maritime defensive structures, including Doria Castle, a circular watchtower, and the Belforte Fortress.

In some ways, Vernazza felt similar to Manarola, where we are staying. Both feature colorful houses built up the hillsides, but Vernazza has a wider opening to the sea and a more spacious harbor. The village’s landmarks include the Church of Saint Margaret of Antioch with its octagonal bell tower, as well as the circular watchtower and Belforte Fortress perched on the hill above.

五渔村有一种很有特色的街头小吃，炸海鲜，几乎每个小镇都能看到售卖的小店。今天中午，我们便买了一份来当午餐，两个人一起分享。纸筒里装着刚炸好的虾、鱿鱼、凤尾鱼等各种海鲜，外皮酥脆，带着淡淡的海味，简单却很符合海边小镇的氛围。当然，俯瞰小镇的美景并不是轻易就能得到的。需要爬坡、爬石阶，在阳光下一步一步往上走，流着汗才能抵达那些观景点。我们先后爬上了三处不同的山坡包括瞭望点（瞭望点的需要额外的门票，每人2.5欧元）每到一个高处，眼前都会展开不一样的景色。

Cinque Terre has a distinctive local street food that can be found in almost every village: fried seafood. Around lunchtime, we bought a cone of it to share. Filled with freshly fried shrimp, squid, anchovies, and other seafood, it was crispy on the outside with a subtle taste of the sea—simple, but perfectly suited to the atmosphere of a coastal village.

Of course, the beautiful panoramic views of the town do not come easily. Reaching the viewpoints requires climbing steep hills and stone stairways, step by step under the sun, working up a sweat along the way. We climbed to three different hillside viewpoints, including the watchtower lookout (which required an additional €2.50 admission fee per person). At each vantage point, a different view unfolded before us, making every climb worthwhile.

第三站是科尔尼利亚。它位于五渔村的中心位置，坐落在约90米高的悬崖顶端，是五个村庄中唯一一个不直接临海的村庄。因此，乘火车到达科尔尼利亚后，如果不想攀爬三百多级阶梯前往镇中心，可以搭乘接驳巴士。凭我们的五渔村卡，巴士可以免费乘坐。下了火车后，我们在烈日下等了十多分钟，终于坐上了巴士，几分钟后便抵达了镇中心。虽然这里不像其他几个村庄那样紧邻海边，也没有小港口和海滨长廊，但五渔村特有的风貌依然随处可见：彩色的房屋、狭窄的石板小巷、热闹的小广场和悠闲的咖啡馆，一样充满了意大利海岸小镇的气息。不过走了一圈之后，我俩都庆幸没有把民宿订在这里。每天上下悬崖，无论是爬那三百多级台阶还是等待接驳巴士，都会有些不方便。当然，作为游客来这里逛一逛，感受这个与众不同的村庄，还是很值得的。

Our third stop was Corniglia. Located in the center of Cinque Terre, it sits atop a cliff about 90 meters above sea level and is the only one of the five villages that is not directly connected to the sea. As a result, after arriving by train, visitors who do not want to climb the more than 300 steps leading up to the town center can take a shuttle bus instead. With our Cinque Terre Card, the shuttle was free.

After getting off the train, we waited in the hot sun for more than ten minutes before finally boarding the bus. A few minutes later, we arrived in the village center. Although Corniglia lacks the waterfront setting, small harbor, and seaside promenade found in the other villages, the distinctive character of Cinque Terre is still everywhere: colorful houses, narrow stone-paved alleyways, lively little squares, and relaxed cafés, all filled with the charm of an Italian coastal town.

After walking around for a while, however, we were both glad that we had not booked our stay here. Having to go up and down the cliff every day – either by climbing or waiting for the shuttle bus – would have been somewhat inconvenient. Still, as visitors, it was well worth spending a few hours exploring this unique village and experiencing a different side of Cinque Terre.

在烈日下等了十多分钟后，我们幸运地作为最后两名乘客挤上了第二班巴士。- After waiting in the hot sun for more than ten minutes, we were lucky enough to squeeze onto the second shuttle bus as its last two passengers.

建于1334年的罗马天主教教堂科尔尼利亚圣彼得教堂 – The Roman Catholic Church of Saint Peter in Corniglia, built in 1334.

整个五渔村走下来，我还是最喜欢我们住的马纳罗拉。这里拥有最典型的五渔村风景：依山而建的彩色房屋、蔚蓝的大海和悬崖边的小港湾，一切都像明信片里的画面。相比其他几个村庄，这里的游客虽然不少，但还没有拥挤到让人觉得疲惫。而且最难得的是，不需要爬太多陡峭的山坡，就能轻松找到俯瞰整个小镇的观景位置。对于已经连续走了好几天石阶和山路的我们来说，实在太友好了。也许每个人心中都会有自己最喜欢的五渔村，但对我而言，马纳罗拉无疑是最好的那个。

走完五个村庄后，疲惫的双脚终于得到了短暂的休息。回到民宿歇了一会儿，傍晚时分，我们又来到海边，点了两杯啤酒，看着来来往往的人群和眼前的海景，享受一天中最放松的时刻。谁料刚坐下，某人突然发现手机忘在民宿了！哈哈，对于他来说，没有手机是不可想象的事情。于是他只能无奈地起身，再次踏上那熟悉的上坡和石阶之路，来回折腾了十四分钟，等他气喘吁吁地回来时，连自己都说这是给自己上的一课。晚饭选择了民宿旁边的 Billy 餐厅。因为谷歌地图上的评价不错，很多人都会提前预订。我们没有预定，得到了一个室外的位子，看到的景色和民宿阳台上一模一样。至于食物嘛，意大利面算是中规中矩，达到合格线，没有什么特别让人惊艳的地方。

After visiting all five villages, Manarola remains our favorite. It has what we consider the quintessential Cinque Terre scenery: colorful houses cascading down the hillside, the deep blue sea, and a small harbor tucked beneath dramatic cliffs. Everything looks as if it belongs on a postcard. Compared with the other villages, there are still plenty of visitors here, but not so many that it becomes exhausting. Best of all, you do not have to climb endless steep hills to find spectacular viewpoints overlooking the village. After several days of walking up stone stairways and mountain paths, that was something we truly appreciated. Everyone probably has their own favorite village in Cinque Terre, but for us, Manarola is unquestionably the best.

After completing our tour of all five villages, our tired feet finally got a chance to rest. We returned to the apartment for a break, and in the early evening headed back down to the waterfront. We ordered two drinks and relaxed while watching the crowds pass by and taking in the sea views.

Then, just after we sat down, someone suddenly realized that he had left his phone back at the apartment! For him, being without a phone was simply unimaginable. With no choice, he got up and once again tackled the now-familiar uphill climb and stone stairways. Fourteen minutes later, after making the round trip, he returned out of breath and admitted that it had been a lesson for himself.

For dinner, we chose Billy’s Trattoria, located next to our apartment. It is well reviewed on Google Maps, and many visitors make reservations in advance. We had not reserved a table, but were given an outdoor seat with a view identical to the one from our apartment balcony. As for the food, the pasta was perfectly acceptable – good enough, but nothing particularly memorable or surprising.

卡布里沙拉，大虾意面，罗勒酱意面 – Caprese Salad, Shrimp Pasta, and Pesto Pasta.

脚痒的时候想看世界，脚疼的时候才知道我们已经走了多远。

When your feet are itchy, you want to travel the world. When your feet hurt, you realize just how far you’ve already come.