五渔村之上篇：马纳罗拉和里奥马焦雷 – Cinque Terre, Part 1: Manarola and Riomaggiore

2026年5月29日，星期五，2026北部意大利之旅的第八天

Friday, May 29, 2026 — Day 8 of Our Northern Italy Trip

五渔村卡是游览五渔村国家公园最实用的一种通票，分为“徒步卡”和“火车卡”两种。我们在家就买好的是火车卡，每张81欧元，可以无限次搭乘往返于拉斯佩齐亚、五渔村各小镇以及莱万托之间的地区火车；同时还包含所有收费徒步路线（包括著名的“爱之路”）、村内环保巴士、公园洗手间以及部分博物馆的使用。原本我们已经预约好了今天早上10点半去徒步“爱之路”，计划先坐火车到旁边的里奥马焦雷，再从爱之路步行返回马纳罗拉。但今天是意大利铁路系统罢工，火车运行受到影响，原本的计划也只能临时放弃。于是我决定换一种方式，独自去爬民宿对面山坡上的徒步路线。从阳台上就能看到很多人在那条小路上慢慢前行，PJG 则选择留在民宿休息，享受一下难得不用赶路的上午。

The Cinque Terre Card is the most practical pass for visiting the Cinque Terre National Park. It comes in two versions: a Hiking Card and a Train Card. We had purchased the Train Card before leaving home. At 81 euros per person, it allowed unlimited travel on regional trains between La Spezia, the Cinque Terre villages, and Levanto. It also included access to all paid hiking trails (including the famous Via dell’Amore), village shuttle buses, park restrooms, and selected museums.

We had originally reserved a 10:30am entry for the Via dell’Amore trail and planned to take the train to next town Riomaggiore, then walk back to Manarola along the scenic path. However, today Italy’s railway system was affected by a strike, disrupting train service and forcing us to abandon our original plans.

Instead, I decided to do something different and hike the trail on the hillside directly across from our apartment. From our balcony, I could already see people slowly making their way along the path. PJG chose to stay behind and relax at the apartment, enjoying a rare morning without the need to rush off anywhere.

这段上坡路对我来说还算轻松，对面可以看到我们的民宿，彩色的小镇层层叠叠地铺在山坡上，脚下就是蔚蓝的大海，景色确实很美。

This uphill section was fairly easy for me. Across the valley, I could see our apartment, while the colorful village cascaded down the hillside in layers. Below, the deep blue sea stretched out before me. The scenery was truly beautiful.

我们民宿的房间，某人在阳台上 – Our apartment, with someone relaxing on the balcony.

这是马纳罗拉著名的圣诞灯饰装置的基座，石碑是在纪念其创作者马里奥·安德烈奥利及其兄弟。该装置始于1961年，每年圣诞期间会点亮整座山坡，是当地极具标志性的历史地标。

This is the base of Manarola’s famous Christmas lights display. The plaque commemorates its creator, Mario Andreoli, and his brother. First installed in 1961, the display illuminates the entire hillside each Christmas season and has become one of the village’s most iconic landmarks.

如果要用一个地方代表意大利海岸的浪漫，大概就是五渔村。这片被联合国教科文组织列入世界遗产名录的海岸线，由五个依山傍海的村落串联而成。在这里，陡峭险峻的悬崖直插进利古里亚海那近乎不真实的蓝色里，而顺着悬崖铺展延伸的，是一座座被刷成明黄、砖红的彩色房屋，它们像散落在大海边缘的彩色糖果，在耀眼的阳光下闪烁。这里少有汽车的轰鸣，只有沿海火车在山洞与海风之间穿梭，将漫山的梯田葡萄园与惊涛拍岸的礁石港口连接在一起。

If there is one place that embodies the romance of the Italian coast, it is probably Cinque Terre. This UNESCO World Heritage coastline is made up of five villages perched between mountains and sea, linked together along one of Italy’s most spectacular stretches of shoreline.

Here, steep cliffs plunge dramatically into the almost unreal blue waters of the Ligurian Sea. Clinging to those cliffs are clusters of brightly painted houses in shades of yellow, orange, and red, scattered along the coastline like colorful candies sparkling in the Mediterranean sun.

There is little of the noise and traffic found elsewhere. Instead, coastal trains weave through tunnels and along the sea, connecting terraced vineyards that blanket the hillsides with tiny harbors where waves crash against the rocks below.

我们所在的村是马纳罗拉，它是五渔村的第二个村庄，坐落在格罗波溪形成的山谷之中，也是五渔村历史最悠久的聚落之一。村庄可能由附近沃拉斯特拉的居民建立，早在13世纪便与热那亚共和国有着密切联系。过去，格罗波溪从村庄中央穿流而过，如今的主街 Via Discovolo便位于当年的河道之上。1950年至1978年间，溪流逐渐被覆盖埋入地下，连接村庄两侧的石桥也成为今天街道的一部分。

The village where we were staying was Manarola, the second of the five Cinque Terre villages. Nestled in a valley carved by the Groppo Stream, it is also one of the oldest settlements in the region.

The village was likely founded by residents from nearby Volastra and had close ties to the Republic of Genoa as early as the 13th century. In the past, the Groppo Stream flowed through the center of the village. Today, the main street, Via Discovolo, follows the course of that former stream.

Between 1950 and 1978, the stream was gradually covered and diverted underground. The stone bridges that once spanned the waterway became incorporated into the modern street, forming part of the village we see today.

爬山回来后，我们一起出去慢慢逛这个小村庄。午饭时，在一家三明治店买了两个三明治，找了一处有阴凉的石阶坐下来吃午饭。逛着逛着，我们发现村里游客似乎一点也不少。心里不禁纳闷：今天不是铁路罢工吗？这些人是怎么来的？带着疑问，我们去了火车站咨询。结果发现，虽然铁路系统罢工，但仍有部分列车维持运行。更让人惊喜的是，工作人员告诉我们，原本预约在今天上午10点30分的“爱之路”门票依然有效，我们可以直接去走那段步道。原本以为今天与爱之路无缘了，没想到兜兜转转，机会竟然又回来了。

After I returned from the hike, we headed out together to explore the village at a leisurely pace. For lunch, we bought two sandwiches from a small sandwich shop and found a shaded stone staircase where we could sit and eat.

As we wandered through the streets, we noticed that there seemed to be no shortage of visitors. It made us wonder: wasn’t there supposed to be a railway strike today? How had all these people managed to get here?

Curious, we stopped by the train station to ask. It turned out that although the railway system was on strike, a limited number of trains were still operating. Even better, the staff told us that our reservation for the Via dell’Amore at 10:30 that morning was still valid, and we could go ahead and walk the trail.

We had already assumed that our chance to visit the Via dell’Amore was gone for the day. To our surprise, after all the uncertainty and changes of plan, the opportunity had found its way back to us.

“爱之路”是五渔村最浪漫的滨海悬崖栈道之一，全长约810米，连接着里奥马焦雷和马纳罗拉两村。它最初因修建沿沿海铁路而开凿，后来意外成为两地年轻人私密约会的“秘密基地”并因此得名。在2012年因塌方关闭12年后，这条浪漫小路于2024年8月全面重新开放，如今实行限流预约游览。我们便踏上了爱之路。

The Via dell’Amore (“Path of Love”) is one of the most romantic cliffside coastal walkways in Cinque Terre. Stretching about 810 meters (2,660 feet), it connects the villages of Riomaggiore and Manarola. Originally carved out during the construction of the coastal railway, it later became a secluded meeting place for young couples from the two villages, earning its romantic name. After being closed for 12 years following a landslide in 2012, the pathway fully reopened in August 2024 and now operates with timed-entry reservations and visitor limits. We were finally able to set out along the Path of Love ourselves.

不到20分钟的平坦徒步，沿途都是海景，我们就到达了里奥马焦雷。它是五渔村最东端的村庄。这里最早的历史记载可以追溯到1251年，也是当时居住在山上的居民逐渐迁往海边，在热那亚共和国统治时期，这里发展成为重要的海上贸易港口。当然这里也有着五渔村典型的景观：彩色房屋沿着狭窄的山谷一路向海边延伸，层层叠叠地铺展在陡峭的海岸之上。

After an easy, mostly flat walk of less than 20 minutes, with sea views the entire way, we arrived in Riomaggiore, the easternmost village of Cinque Terre. The earliest historical records of the village date back to 1251. It was originally settled by people who lived in the surrounding hills and gradually moved down toward the coast. During the rule of the Republic of Genoa, Riomaggiore developed into an important maritime trading port.

Like the other villages of Cinque Terre, it features the region’s signature scenery: colorful houses cascading down a narrow valley toward the sea, stacked layer upon layer along the steep coastline.

晚饭我们选择了海边一家海鲜餐厅，第一次见到蓝螃蟹意面。味道还不错，螃蟹的鲜味很足，搭配意面也很有海边小镇的感觉。吃完晚饭走出餐厅，正好赶上落日时分。夕阳的余晖慢慢洒在层层叠叠的彩色房屋上，把整座小镇染成柔和的金橙色。海面也被映得闪闪发亮，那一刻马纳罗拉显得格外美丽。

For dinner, we chose a seafood restaurant by the water and tried blue crab pasta for the first time. It was quite good – the crab was fresh and flavorful, and paired perfectly with the pasta, giving the meal a distinctly seaside-town character.

When we left the restaurant, we arrived just in time for sunset. The fading sunlight slowly washed over the layers of colorful houses, bathing the entire village in soft shades of gold and orange. The sea shimmered in the evening light, and in that moment, Manarola looked especially beautiful.

Back at the apartment, we sat on the balcony, quietly enjoying the last rays of the setting sun. As the sky gradually darkened, we sipped a glass of red wine and took in the peaceful evening.