三个小镇 – Three Towns

2026年5月26日，星期二，2026北部意大利之旅的第五天

Tuesday, May 26, 2026 — Day 5 of Our Northern Italy Trip

今天我们打算坐渡船去另外两个小镇逛一逛。昨天已经提前买好了今天的渡轮一日通票，17.5欧元一张，一天之内可以无限次乘坐。从瓦伦纳到贝拉焦的航程大约15分钟，湖面很平静，船慢慢划过水面，两岸的风景也在眼前一点点展开。贝拉焦是科莫湖更大的一个小镇，相比瓦伦纳少了一些小镇气质，但整体依然很漂亮。这里同样有湖景、狭窄的小巷、各式小店和石板街道，有着几百年历史的教堂和钟楼，整体更热闹一些。

Today we plan to take the ferry to visit two other towns around the lake. We had already bought day passes for the ferries yesterday — 17.5 euros each for unlimited rides throughout the day. The ride from Varenna to Bellagio took about 15 minutes. The lake was very calm, and the ferry slowly moved across the water as the scenery on both shores gradually unfolded before us.

Bellagio is a larger town on Lake Como. Compared to Varenna, it has a little less of that small-town charm, but it is still very beautiful overall. It also has lake views, narrow alleyways, little shops, and stone-paved streets, along with centuries-old churches and bell towers. The atmosphere here felt livelier and busier.

镇上美丽的橱窗 – Beautiful shop windows in town

在贝拉焦简单吃了一个三明治后，我们赶到码头，准备搭乘12:40的渡轮前往梅纳焦。排队等了十多分钟，眼看时间已经过了12:40，船却迟迟没有出现。然后听到前面排队的人询问工作人员才知道，这一班渡轮已经取消，需要改等下一班1:35的。码头没有任何明显的提示或公告。PJG也问了工作人员，想知道以后如何确认船是否取消，对方一开始还有些困惑，最后才说可以去售票处查看。我们走过去一看，才发现贴在玻璃窗上的小小的时间表上12:40那一班只是被一张指甲盖大小的小纸条盖住，上面手写着意大利语的“取消”，没有人会注意到的。

After a simple sandwich lunch in Bellagio, we hurried to the dock to catch the 12:40 ferry to Menaggio. We waited in line for more than ten minutes, and as the time passed well beyond 12:40, the ferry still had not appeared. Then we heard people at the front asking the staff and learned that the ferry had been canceled, and we would have to wait for the next one at 1:35 instead. There were no obvious signs or announcements anywhere at the dock.

PJG also asked the staff how passengers were supposed to know if a ferry had been canceled. At first the employee seemed confused, then finally said that we could check at the ticket office. When we walked over, we discovered that on the small schedule posted on the glass window, the 12:40 departure had merely been covered by a tiny handwritten note, no larger than a fingernail, with the Italian word for “cancelled” written on it. Almost nobody would ever notice it.

经过十多分钟的船程，我们来到了梅纳焦。它位于瓦伦纳的对岸，在这三个小镇里，感觉是最小也最安静的一个。这里同样有典型的科莫湖小镇风景：沿湖而建的长廊、热闹的中心广场、狭窄的石子小路、带着岁月痕迹的拱门，以及古老的圣斯德望堂。这些元素组合在一起，构成了一个很有魅力的意大利湖畔小镇。

After a ferry ride of a little more than ten minutes, we arrived in Menaggio. Located directly across the lake from Varenna, it felt like the smallest and quietest of the three towns. It still had all the classic Lake Como scenery: a lakeside promenade, a lively central piazza, narrow stone alleyways, weathered arches marked by time, and the ancient Church of Santo Stefano. Together, these elements created a charming Italian lakeside town full of character.

在湖边吃了一份意大利冰淇淋后，我们便搭渡轮回到民宿休息。等到傍晚的意式餐前酒时间，我们又一次出现在了 Molo，连自己都忍不住笑了。在瓦伦纳短短几天里，这里已经变成我们的固定据点了。不过今天的位子，快到6点时，阳光就慢慢照到了湖边的位置，一半的桌子都晒在太阳下。不过这丝毫没有影响眼前迷人的湖景。

After having some gelato by the lake, we took the ferry back to the Airbnb to rest. Then, when aperitivo time arrived in the evening, we found ourselves once again at Molo. In just a few days in Varenna, this place had already become our regular spot.

Today’s seats, however, started getting sunlight by around six o’clock, and half the tables along the lake were slowly covered in direct sun. Even so, it did nothing to diminish the beautiful lake view in front of us.

晚饭时间又是一番挣扎，我们在一家热门餐厅门口排了好一会儿队，但队伍几乎没有怎么往前移动。后来 PJG自己去旁边一家人少一点的餐厅试试。很快就被安排入座，但位置是在地下半层的室内区域，没有任何景色可言。点了两道菜后，非常令人失望，大概是这几天吃下来最不满意的一顿。味道普通，没有任何亮点。我都懒得拍饭店的照片了，吃完后就直接在 Google 地图上给了一个一星评价，哈哈。

Dinner turned into another struggle. We waited in line at one restaurant for quite a while, but the line barely moved. PJG finally decided to try another place that did not seem as crowded, and we were quickly seated in a semi-underground indoor dining area (think dungeon). Of course, there was no view at all. We ordered two dishes, and they were extremely disappointing – probably the worst food we had eaten so far on the trip. I did not even bother taking photos of the restaurant. I ended up leaving a one-star review on Google Maps, haha.

走出饭店后，走到湖边，晚上9点多，落日的余晖洒在平静的湖面上，泛起一层温柔的金色光影。湖面很安静，两只鸭子在水里悠闲地游着，在享受属于它们的夜晚时光。

After leaving the restaurant, we walked down to the lake. It was already past 9 PM, and the last light of the sunset spread across the calm water, creating a soft golden glow. The lake was very peaceful, and two ducks drifted leisurely across the water, enjoying their own quiet evening by the lake.