瓦伦纳的一天 – A Day in Varenna

2026年5月25日，星期一 ，2026北部意大利之旅的第四天

Monday, May 25, 2026 — Day 4 of Our Northern Italy Trip

因为这里白天人潮拥挤，今天早上七点多我就起床，想独自拥有这个小镇。PJG在民宿继续睡觉。果然，清晨的瓦伦纳非常安静，除了几家餐厅的工作人员开始为新一天做准备，几乎看不到游客。我和小熊慢慢走在空荡的小巷和湖边步道上，阳光洒下来，整个小镇被一层柔和的光笼罩着。没有喧闹的人群，只有湖水的微光和偶尔的脚步声，这段清晨的瓦伦纳显得格外安静，也格外美好。

Because the town gets extremely crowded during the day, I woke up a little after seven this morning, hoping to have the town to myself. So, while PJG slept, I found that sure enough, Varenna was incredibly quiet in the early morning. Aside from a few restaurant workers preparing for the new day, there were almost no tourists around.

The Bear and I slowly walked through the empty alleyways and along the lakeside paths as the sunlight poured down, covering the entire town in a soft glow. Without the noisy crowds, there was only the shimmer of the lake and the occasional sound of footsteps. Varenna in the early morning felt especially peaceful and especially beautiful.

我们民宿窗外的景色 – The view from our Airbnb windows.

属于我和小熊的安静的早晨 – A quiet morning for me and The Bear

在一家小店买了两个羊角面包当早餐后，我们决定徒步上山去韦齐奥城堡。城堡位于瓦伦纳上方的山坡上，可以俯瞰科莫湖区。上午天气还算可以接受，大约30分钟的上坡，全是用石头铺成的山路，一路走走停停。等真正到达山顶城堡时，已经是满身汗水。

After buying two croissants for breakfast at a small shop, we decided to hike up the hill to Castello di Vezio. The castle sits on the hillside above Varenna and overlooks the Lake Como area. The weather in the morning was still fairly manageable, and the uphill walk took about 30 minutes along stone-paved mountain paths. We stopped and rested along the way. By the time we finally reached the castle at the top, we were exhausted and overheated.

但站上去的一瞬间，所有疲惫好像一下子都消失了。眼前的景色太开阔了，层层叠叠的山峰环绕着湖区，彩色的小镇像被随意撒落一样嵌在山坡和湖岸之间，密密麻麻却又很有秩序。湖水在阳光下闪着细碎的光，游船缓缓划过水面，留下一道道清晰的痕迹。那一刻的感觉很简单：走得再累也值得。

But the moment we stood at the top, all the exhaustion seemed to disappear instantly. The view in front of us was unbelievably expansive. Layer upon layer of mountains surrounded the lake, while the colorful little towns looked as if they had been casually scattered between the hillsides and the shoreline – densely packed, yet somehow perfectly orderly. The lake shimmered under the sunlight, and boats slowly crossed the water, leaving clear trails behind them. In that moment, the feeling was simple: no matter how tiring the climb had been, it was completely worth it.

据城堡网站介绍城堡历史悠久，最早可追溯至铁器时代，并在中世纪长期作为瓦伦纳居民抵御科莫袭击的防御避难所。城堡在1169年科马卡纳岛难民涌入后进行了重修，其官方文献记载始于1368年。此后经历了一系列的业权变更，现由 格雷皮·迪·罗比兰特家族私人拥有。

According to the castle’s website, the fortress has a long history dating back to the Iron Age. During the Middle Ages, it served as a defensive refuge for the people of Varenna against attacks from Como. The castle was rebuilt after refugees from Isola Comacina arrived in 1169, and its first official documented records date to 1368. Over the centuries, ownership changed several times, and today it is privately owned by the Greppi di Robilant family.

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城堡里有一个昏暗的地下地牢，里摆放着骷髅、铁链和类似怪兽的雕塑，并播放恐怖的诡异音乐，营造了一种中世纪恐怖氛围。结合城堡关于幽灵与亡魂的传说，让游客体验一种阴森、神秘的感觉。

Inside the castle there is a dim underground dungeon filled with skeletons, iron chains, and monster-like sculptures, while eerie music plays in the background to create a frightening medieval atmosphere. Combined with the castle’s legends of ghosts and wandering spirits, it gives visitors a dark and mysterious experience.

下山之后，我们在码头旁的一家餐厅简单吃了顿午饭。稍作休息后，便前往莫纳斯特罗别墅，这是瓦伦纳最著名的景点之一。整座别墅和花园沿着科莫湖缓缓展开，长长的湖畔步道、绿意盎然的花园与湖景安静地融在一起。

After coming back down the mountain, we had lunch at a restaurant near the ferry terminal. After a short rest, we headed to Villa Monastero, one of Varenna’s most famous attractions. The entire villa and its gardens stretch gracefully along Lake Como, where the long lakeside paths, lush greenery, and peaceful lake views blend together beautifully.

它的名字“Monastero”在意大利语里是“修道院”的意思。这里在12世纪时确实是一所隐修院，在漫长的岁月中，这座别墅几经易主，最终传到瑞士裔米兰人德·马尔基家族，1939年，德·马尔基家族将别墅捐赠给国家，并要求其必须妥善保护并作为造福公众的文化机构使用。14年后的1953年，这里建成了会议中心。直至今日，它依然是举办各类文化与科学会议的盛地，其中最著名的莫过于享誉国际的意大利物理学院夏季课，这里曾见证了60多位诺贝尔奖得主的风采。

Its name, “Monastero,” means “monastery” in Italian. In the 12th century, it really was a convent. Over the centuries, the villa changed hands many times before eventually passing to the Swiss-Milanese De Marchi family. In 1939, the De Marchi family donated the villa to the state on the condition that it be carefully preserved and used as a cultural institution for the public good. Fourteen years later, in 1953, it was transformed into a conference center. To this day, it remains an important venue for cultural and scientific conferences, the most famous being the internationally renowned Italian Physical Society summer school, which has hosted more than 60 Nobel Prize winners over the years.

炎热的天气让我们实在没有力气把整个巨大的花园慢慢逛完，于是回民宿休息了一会儿。傍晚时分，我们又来到湖边的餐厅 Molo，享受湖景和意大利人最喜欢的 Aperitivo，也就是意式餐前酒时光。Aperitivo 不只是简单喝一杯酒，更是一种放松生活节奏的方式。通常从傍晚六点持续到晚上九点，人们坐在湖边或广场旁，一边喝酒，一边聊天，慢慢迎接夜晚。这已经是我们第二次来到 Molo了。因为湖边仅有的几家餐厅几乎天天爆满，只有这里还能比较顺利地等到座位，而且刚好有阴凉的位置。在炎热的夏日傍晚，坐在湖边、喝着冰凉的酒，看着来来往往的人群，实在是一件很舒服的事情。

The intense heat left us without the energy to slowly explore the entire enormous garden, so we returned to the Airbnb to rest for a while. In the evening, we went back to the lakeside restaurant Molo to enjoy the lake view and one of Italy’s favorite traditions: Aperitivo, the pre-dinner drink hour. Aperitivo is more than just having a drink — it’s a way of slowing down and relaxing into the evening. Usually lasting from around 6 PM to 9 PM, people gather by the lake or in town squares, drinking, chatting, and gradually welcoming the night.

This was already our second time at Molo. Since the few restaurants along the lake were packed almost every day, this was one of the only places where we could still manage to get a table without too much trouble, especially one in the shade. On a hot summer evening, sitting by the lake with a cold drink and watching the crowds pass by was simply a wonderful feeling.

晚饭地点又经历了一番“挣扎”。小镇里的餐厅几乎都客满，或者门口都排着长队，好在这家意大利餐厅等待时间还算不太久，大约二十多分钟后，我们等到了一个小巷里的小座位。坐在安静的小巷里，慢慢吃着晚饭，然后夜色中，今天也慢慢收了尾。

Choosing a place for dinner turned into another small struggle. Nearly every restaurant in town was either completely full or had long lines outside. Fortunately, the wait at this Italian restaurant was not too bad, and after a little more than twenty minutes, we were finally seated at a small table tucked away in an alley. Sitting there in the quiet little lane, slowly enjoying dinner, the day gradually came to an end along with the night.