佛罗伦萨第一天 – Our First Day in Florence

2026年6月2日，星期二，2026北部意大利之旅的第十二天

June 2, 2026, Tuesday — Day 12 of Our Northern Italy Trip

距离民宿步行仅四分钟的老桥，总是挤满了来自世界各地的游客。不过这也不难理解，几乎每一个来到佛罗伦萨的人，都会专程来这里走一走。老桥是佛罗伦萨横跨阿尔诺河最古老、最具代表性的中世纪石拱桥。最初的桥梁是木结构的，在1333年的洪水中被冲毁后，于1345年重建为如今看到的石桥。桥上早期聚集着肉铺和杂货商，但随着美第奇家族修建了连接两岸宫殿的瓦萨里走廊，为了避免异味影响贵族通行，桥上的肉铺被迁离，自16世纪起逐渐由珠宝商和金匠取代。直到今天，桥上依然林立着珠宝店和金饰店，因此也被称为佛罗伦萨最著名的“珠宝街”。即使在二战期间的轰炸中，老桥也奇迹般地保存了下来。

Just a four-minute walk from our apartment, the Ponte Vecchio was always crowded with visitors from around the world. That’s hardly surprising, as almost everyone who comes to Florence makes a point of walking across it at least once.

The Ponte Vecchio is the oldest and most iconic medieval stone arch bridge spanning the Arno River in Florence. The original bridge was made of wood but was destroyed in the great flood of 1333. It was rebuilt in stone in 1345, creating the bridge we see today. In its early years, the bridge was lined with butcher shops and grocers. However, after the Medici family built the Vasari Corridor to connect their palaces on either side of the river, the butchers were relocated to prevent unpleasant odors from disturbing noble travelers. Beginning in the 16th century, jewelers and goldsmiths gradually took their place. To this day, the bridge remains filled with jewelry and gold shops, earning it the reputation of Florence’s most famous “jewelry street.”

Remarkably, the Ponte Vecchio survived the bombings of World War II and remains standing today as one of Florence’s most treasured landmarks.

今天早上6点半，我便起床前往老桥。清晨总是游览旅游胜地的最美好的时光。没有白天的人山人海，没有拥挤的人潮和喧闹的声音，只有晨跑的人、清扫街道的工作人员，正在为新一天营业做准备的店主，拖着行李刚到这里的人，拍婚纱照的两对美丽快乐的年轻人，以及其他零星的游客。阿尔诺河静静流淌，桥上的店铺还没有开门。我独自带着小熊，在老桥和河岸边慢慢地走着、看着，一个多小时不知不觉便过去了。

At 6:30 this morning, I quietly got up alone and headed to the Ponte Vecchio. Early morning is always the best time to visit popular tourist destinations. The huge crowds are gone, along with the noise and congestion of the daytime. Instead, there were joggers, street cleaners, shop owners preparing to open for the day, a few travelers arriving with their luggage, two happy young couples taking wedding photos, and a handful of other early visitors like me.

The Arno River flowed quietly beneath the bridge, and the shops had not yet opened. Carrying The Bear with me, I wandered slowly across the Ponte Vecchio and along the riverbank, taking in the peaceful scene. Before I knew it, more than an hour had passed.

来到佛罗伦萨，当然不能错过已有700多年历史的圣母百花大教堂。出发前在网上买票时有几种选择：一种是可以爬463级台阶登上穹顶的套票，另一种是登乔托钟楼（约414级台阶）。我们最终选择了钟楼通票，因为据说穹顶通道中途没有休息点。门票20欧元/人，预约了今天10:30的登钟楼时段。这张票的有效期为三天，还可以参观圣雷帕拉塔地下遗址、圣若望洗礼堂、大教堂歌剧博物馆，当然也包括进入大教堂主殿一层（本身就是免费开放的区域）。

圣母百花大教堂不仅是佛罗伦萨的象征，更被视为文艺复兴的起点之一。教堂始建于1296年，历时约140年才基本完工。它最著名的部分是由建筑师菲利波·布鲁内莱斯基设计的巨大红色穹顶。15世纪时，布鲁内莱斯基在没有传统脚手架支撑的情况下完成了这项当时被认为“不可能完成”的工程，使其成为世界上最大的砖砌穹顶之一，也深刻改变了欧洲建筑的发展方向。很多历史学家认为，如果没有这座穹顶，就不会有后来的文艺复兴建筑体系。

No visit to Florence would be complete without seeing the Florence Cathedral, or Duomo, which has stood for more than 700 years.

When purchasing tickets online before the trip, there were several options. One package included climbing the dome via 463 steps, while another provided access to Giotto’s Campanile, which requires climbing about 414 steps. We ultimately chose the bell tower pass because we had heard that there are no rest stops inside the dome passage. The ticket cost €20 per person, and we reserved a 10:30 a.m. time slot for the bell tower climb.

The ticket is valid for three days and also includes access to the Santa Reparata archaeological site beneath the cathedral, the Florence Baptistery, the Opera del Duomo Museum, and, of course, entry to the cathedral’s main nave, which is otherwise free to visit.

The Duomo is not only the symbol of Florence but is also widely regarded as one of the starting points of the Renaissance. Construction began in 1296 and took roughly 140 years to complete. Its most famous feature is the enormous red dome designed by Filippo Brunelleschi. In the 15th century, Brunelleschi accomplished what many believed was impossible by constructing the dome without the traditional wooden centering normally required for such a project. The result became one of the largest masonry domes ever built and profoundly influenced the course of European architecture. Many historians believe that without Brunelleschi’s dome, the architectural achievements of the Renaissance might never have developed in the same way.

大教堂的外观本身就带有极强的视觉冲击：白、绿、粉三色大理石如织锦般层层错落，严丝合缝的拼贴与繁复精细的石雕交织在一起。远远望去，整座建筑仿佛一件巨大的、悬浮于现实之外的石雕艺术品。第一次亲眼见到它，一种非常不真实的感觉。

The exterior of the Duomo is strikingly dramatic. Layers of white, green, and pink marble are arranged like an intricate tapestry, with perfectly fitted patterns interwoven with elaborate stone carvings. From a distance, the entire building seems less like a church and more like a gigantic work of sculpted art suspended in the real world. Seeing it in person for the first time feels unreal.

到乔托钟楼下排队，我们在10:30准时进入并通过安检开始攀登。原以为414级台阶会很吃力，但实际比想象中轻松不少，可能是这几天在五渔村不断爬坡和石阶训练的结果。沿途每隔100个台阶就有可停留的平台，可以短暂休息，也能俯瞰城市景色，让整个过程变得不那么吃力。登上顶端后，佛罗伦萨的全景尽收眼底：红色穹顶近在眼前，城市在阿尔诺河两侧铺展开来，甚至还能看到我们住的民宿屋顶平台。

We joined the line at the base of Giotto’s Campanile and entered right on time at 10:30, passing through security before beginning the climb.

I had expected the 414 steps to be quite challenging, but it turned out to be easier than anticipated – perhaps thanks to several days of climbing steep hills and endless stone stairways in Cinque Terre. Along the way, there are platforms roughly every 100 steps where visitors can pause, catch their breath, and enjoy views of the city, making the ascent much more manageable.

At the top, Florence unfolded beneath us in every direction. The great red dome stood almost within arm’s reach, the city stretched along both sides of the Arno River, and we could even spot the rooftop terrace of our apartment in the distance.

乔托钟楼是圣母百花大教堂建筑群的重要组成部分，始建于1334年，最初由文艺复兴先驱、著名画家兼建筑师乔托设计并主持建造。虽然乔托在完工前就去世了，但钟楼基本延续了他的设计理念，最终于1359年由另外两位建筑大师接手完工。钟楼高85米。

Giotto’s Campanile is an integral part of the Duomo complex. Construction began in 1334 under the direction of Giotto di Bondone, the renowned painter and architect often regarded as a forerunner of the Renaissance. Although Giotto died before the project was completed, the tower largely followed his original vision. Two other master architects later took over the work, and the bell tower was finally completed in 1359. Rising to a height of 85 meters (279 feet), it remains one of Florence’s most recognizable landmarks.

出了钟楼后，我们在大教堂旁的广场找了一家咖啡店坐下，点了一杯咖啡稍作休息。坐在那里，看着广场上来来往往的游客，以及排着长队等待进入大教堂的人群。随后，我们就在大教堂正对面的一家餐厅吃了午饭，PJG翻出旧照片，他们一家二十多年前来佛罗伦萨时，也曾在这家餐厅用餐。

After coming down from the bell tower, we found a café on the square beside the cathedral and sat down for a short break with a cup of coffee. From our table, we watched the steady flow of tourists crossing the square and the long lines of people waiting to enter the cathedral.

Later, we had lunch at a restaurant directly facing the cathedral. PJG pulled out some old photographs and discovered that when his family visited Florence more than twenty years ago, they had also eaten at this very same restaurant.

吃完午饭后，我们看到圣雷帕拉塔地下遗址入口处排队的人并不多，便决定临时加入队伍。大约等了二十多分钟就顺利进入。来之前在网上看到，有人建议可以从这里进入，不仅队伍相对较短，还能直接进入大教堂主殿一层，从而巧妙避开正门的长队。这里主要展示了这片区域从早期教堂到如今大教堂的历史演变，其中最值得一提的，是菲利波·布鲁内莱斯基的墓。作为一名工匠与建筑师，他被特许安葬在大教堂的地下核心区域，这本身就足以说明当时佛罗伦萨人对他的尊敬与认可。

After lunch, we noticed that the line at the entrance to the Santa Reparata archaeological site was fairly short, so we decided to join it on the spur of the moment. After waiting only twenty minutes, we were able to enter.

Before the trip, I had read online that this entrance was a useful alternative because the queue is often much shorter, and it also provides direct access to the cathedral’s main floor, allowing visitors to avoid the much longer line at the front entrance.

The site primarily showcases the historical evolution of this location, from the early church that once stood here to the cathedral that exists today. The most notable feature is the tomb of Filippo Brunelleschi. As a craftsman and architect, he was granted the rare honor of being buried within the cathedral itself. That privilege alone speaks volumes about the respect and admiration the people of Florence held for him.

和外观的华丽繁复相比，大教堂的内部显得相当简朴而空旷，空间高大而安静，没有过多装饰。最引人注目的，是穹顶内壁那幅巨大的湿壁画《末日审判》，色彩浓烈、气势宏大，据说也是世界上面积最大的壁画之一，站在下面仰望时，很容易被它完全包围。

In contrast to the cathedral’s elaborate and richly decorated exterior, the interior feels surprisingly simple and spacious. The vast nave is tall, quiet, and largely free of excessive ornamentation.

The most striking feature is the enormous fresco of The Last Judgment painted on the inside of the dome. With its vivid colors and immense scale, it is said to be one of the largest frescoes in the world. Standing beneath it and looking up, it is easy to feel completely surrounded by the artwork.

参观结束后，我们慢慢往民宿方向走去，途中经过领主广场。广场上很热闹，各种雕塑在阳光下静静矗立，四周被历史建筑环绕，仿佛一座露天的艺术博物馆。

After our visit, we slowly made our way back toward the apartment, passing through Piazza della Signoria along the way. The square was lively and full of activity. Its many sculptures stood quietly in the sunlight, surrounded on all sides by historic buildings, giving the entire space the feel of an open-air museum.

下面这尊是著名的野猪青铜雕像（Il Porcellino）。当地流传着一个有趣的说法：摸一摸野猪的鼻子可以带来好运。更完整的“仪式”是这样的：先把一枚硬币放在野猪的嘴里，让水流带着硬币滑落，如果硬币最终顺着栅栏掉下去，就意味着好运降临，同时也象征你未来还会再次回到佛罗伦萨。因此，野猪的鼻子也被无数游客摸得锃亮发光。我用一枚10分硬币尝试了一下，没想到硬币真的顺利掉进了下面的栅栏里。PJG尝试的时候，还不知道有这个规则，只是摸了一下它的鼻子。

The statue below is the famous bronze boar known as Il Porcellino. According to local tradition, rubbing the boar’s nose brings good luck.

The full ritual is a bit more elaborate: place a coin in the boar’s mouth and let the flowing water carry it downward. If the coin falls through the grate below, it is said to bring good fortune and symbolizes that you will one day return to Florence. As a result, the boar’s nose has been polished to a bright shine by countless visitors over the years.

I decided to try it with a 10-cent coin, and to my surprise, it dropped neatly through the grate below. PJG, on the other hand, didn’t know about the coin tradition and simply rubbed the boar’s nose.

傍晚时分，我们在马加齐尼路上的一个安静小广场停下来喝了两杯啤酒。小广场四周是古老的建筑，墙面上残留着石制装饰细节。向Chat咨询一下，才意识到自己正被近800年的历史包围着。身旁矗立着一座建于约1200年的中世纪塔楼住宅。在那个佛罗伦萨名门望族通过修建高耸塔楼来彼此较量的年代，它是为数不多的幸存者之一。粗糙的石墙上，仍能清晰看到中世纪工匠留下的梁孔与脚手架痕迹，仿佛时间在这里被定格。对面的墙上，还保留着佛罗伦萨肉商行会的徽章，提醒着人们，这座城市的街道曾经是由强大的行会体系参与规划与管理的。这正是佛罗伦萨迷人的地方：不经意走进的一个小广场，背后却可能藏着数百年的故事。

Toward evening, we stopped for two beers in a quiet little square along Via dei Magazzini. Surrounded by centuries-old buildings, the square was filled with small stone details that hinted at its long history. After asking ChatGPT about the area, we realized that we were sitting in the midst of nearly 800 years of history.

Beside us stood a medieval tower house dating from around 1200. During the era when Florence’s powerful families competed with one another by building ever-taller towers, it was one of the few survivors. The rough stone walls still bear visible beam holes and traces of scaffolding left by medieval craftsmen, as if time itself had been frozen in place.

On a nearby wall, the emblem of Florence’s butchers’ guild could still be seen, a reminder that the city’s streets were once shaped and governed in part by its powerful guild system. This is one of the things that makes Florence so captivating: you can wander into an unassuming little square and suddenly discover that it holds centuries of stories beneath the surface.

座建于约1200年的中世纪塔楼 – A medieval tower dating to around 1200.

晚饭时，我们在谷歌地图上找了一家评价不错的餐厅。因为到得比较早，店里还没有什么客人，于是顺利坐到了靠窗临小巷的位置。来到佛罗伦萨，自然不能错过著名的佛罗伦萨牛排。这里的牛排最少也要点1.2公斤，牛排上桌时气势十足，外层经过炭火烤制，带着浓郁的焦香，没有太多复杂的调味，却能吃出牛肉本身的香气和风味，确实名不虚传。

During dinner, we found a well-reviewed restaurant on Google Maps. Since we arrived quite early, the place was empty, and we got a nice window seat overlooking a small alley. You can’t visit Florence without trying the famous Florentine steak. The minimum order here is 1.2 kg (thats 2.5 POUNDS!). When it was served, it looked impressive，charcoal-grilled to perfection with a rich, smoky aroma. Without any complex seasoning, the natural flavor and richness of the beef truly shined through. It definitely lived up to its reputation.

我们的佛罗伦萨丁骨牛排，足足1.3公斤，当然最后没能吃完。- Our Florentine T-bone steak weighed a whopping 1.3 kg, needless to say, we couldn’t finish it.

晚饭后，我们照例回到民宿的屋顶平台欣赏夜景。佛罗伦萨的灯光已经渐渐亮起，远处的大教堂穹顶依然清晰可见。然而没过多久，天边开始出现一道道闪电，在夜空中时隐时现。为了安全起见，我们还是回到了屋内。就这样错过了在屋顶欣赏佛罗伦萨夜景的第二个夜晚。

After dinner, we went back up to our rooftop terrace to enjoy the night view. The lights of Florence were gradually coming on, and the cathedral’s dome in the distance was still clearly visible. Before long, however, streaks of lightning began flashing across the sky, appearing and disappearing in the dark. For safety’s sake, we headed back inside；and just like that, we missed our second night of enjoying the Florentine skyline from the rooftop.