两个米其林推荐 – A Tale of Two Michelins

11/23/2025 星期日， Sunday, the 22nd day of our Down Under to Eastern Delight trip

这段旅程的第二部分在泰国慢慢展开，不赶行程，不刻意打卡，只是放慢步调，让自己沉在这里的时光与泰式味道里。今天早上的第一件事，就是去附近的洗衣店，把旅行中的疲惫一并交给滚筒机。我们选择了三小时的加急服务，每公斤 100 泰铢，价格公道。
早餐是在酒店享用的自助餐，西式和亚洲式一应俱全，正好满足我们俩不同的口味，吃得很满意。

The second part of our journey is unfolding slowly here in Thailand. No rushing, no checklists – just easing into the pace, letting ourselves sink into the time and the Thai flavor. The first task of the morning was to drop off our laundry at a nearby shop, handing over both the clothes and a bit of travel fatigue to the spinning machines. We chose the three-hour express service at 100 baht per kilo, a fair price.

Breakfast was the hotel buffet, with both Western and Asian options—perfect for our different tastes. We left the table mostly satisfied.

然后我们就在清迈古城里慢慢散步。这里的天气比想象中温和许多，11 月底既不潮湿，也不是那种让人难以忍受的闷热，最高温大概 27 度左右，走起来完全没问题。清迈古城是一座被护城河与断断续续的古城墙包围的方形老城，建于 13 世纪兰纳王朝时期，是当时的都城所在。如今的城墙已经经历过多次战火与修复。最著名的地标，就是古城东门塔佩门，保存最完整的城门，也是古城最具象征意义的地标。它曾是守护古城的重要门户，商人、僧侣、使节都从这里进出，如今是游客必到的打卡之地。

Then we took a slow walk through Chiang Mai’s Old City. The weather was much milder than we expected – late November here isn’t humid, nor is it unbearably hot. The high was around 27 degrees (81), perfectly comfortable for walking. The Old City is a square area surrounded by a moat and the remains of ancient walls, built in the 13th century during the Lanna Kingdom when Chiang Mai was the capital. The walls have seen wars, repairs, and restorations over the centuries.

The most famous landmark is Tha Phae Gate on the east side— the best-preserved gate and the symbolic icon of the Old City. It was once an important entrance for traders, monks, and envoys; now it’s a must-visit spot for travelers.

沿着东侧的塔佩门城墙，一排排鸽子几乎成了固定景观。这里有不少专门为游客提供拍照服务的人，他们不断往地上撒饵，引来一群鸽子围着游客。等游客站好准备拍照时，他们会突然敲击物件，把鸽子惊得四散飞起，制造一种“浪漫又震撼”的画面。但说实话，我非常反感这种做法——既打扰动物，也破坏了原本宁静的城门氛围。观察了一阵子，来这里拍照的大多是中国游客。

Along the eastern wall near Tha Phae Gate, rows of pigeons have basically become part of the scenery. Quite a few people there offer “photo services” to tourists. They keep throwing feed on the ground to draw flocks of pigeons around visitors. When the visitors are ready for their photo, they suddenly hit an object to scare the pigeons into taking off, creating a so-called “romantic and dramatic” moment.

But honestly, we really dislike this practice – it annoys the birds and ruins the quiet atmosphere of the gate. While we were there, I noticed that many of the people taking these photos were Chinese tourists.

走到了位于古城中央的大佛塔寺，是兰纳王国最重要、最具代表性的古寺之一。寺里最著名的，也是我俩最感兴趣，就是那座庄严却残缺的古佛塔，它建于14世纪末，由兰纳王国的帕瑜王为纪念父亲而修建，是皇家陵塔。随后经过几位国王不断扩建，佛塔在 15 世纪达到鼎盛时期，高度一度达到 80–90 米，在当时可谓清迈最高、最宏伟的建筑，几乎象征了整个兰纳王国的信仰与艺术巅峰。

We walked to Wat Chedi Luang in the center of the Old City, one of the most important and representative temples of the Lanna Kingdom. What it’s most famous for – and what interested both of us the most – is the majestic yet partially ruined ancient temple. It was built in the late 14th century by King Phayu of Lanna to honor his father, serving as a royal burial monument. Several kings expanded it over time, and by the 15th century it reached its peak, rising to around 90 meters. It was the tallest and most magnificent structure in Chiang Mai at the time, almost symbolizing the height of the Lanna Kingdom’s faith and artistic achievement.

16 世纪的一场大地震摧毁了佛塔上半部，使它从原本的巍峨高度塌去了至少三分之一，如今看到的残塔，就是那次灾难后的模样。虽然不再完整，却因其残缺反而更有岁月的厚重感，断裂的塔角、被侵蚀的砖石、斑驳的佛龛，都像是活着的历史，在低声诉说着一个古王国的兴衰。

An earthquake in the 16th century destroyed the upper portion of the monument, reducing its once-towering height by at least a third. The structure we see today is the remnant left after that disaster. Though no longer complete, its very ruin gives it a deeper sense of age — the broken corners, the weathered bricks, the faded niches all feel like living history quietly telling the story of a fallen kingdom.

如今的大佛塔依旧是清迈最重要的寺庙之一，也是古城的象征。无论白天还是夜晚，它静静地矗立在那里，与周围的小巷、金顶寺庙、袅绕香火相互映衬，散发着一种独特的、古老而沉静的力量。

Today, Wat Chedi Luang remains one of Chiang Mai’s most important temples and a defining symbol of the Old City. Whether in daylight or at night, it stands quietly in place, framed by the surrounding alleys, golden-roofed temples, and drifting incense. It radiates a unique, ancient, and deeply tranquil kind of strength.

到了午饭时间，我们要去试试一家米其林推荐的泰北咖喱面馆。为了更高效找餐厅，我还特意下载了米其林的 App，里面可以看到每个城市所有获得星级或推荐的餐厅。泰北咖喱面是这里最具代表性的传统料理：金黄色的蛋面浸在浓厚的咖喱椰奶汤里，上面撒着一把炸得酥脆的脆面，配菜通常是腌酸菜、青柠、洋葱，再加一份鸡肉或牛肉。我们从古城走了二十多分钟，来到了一个非常本地的区域，街道窄、店面旧，完全没有旅游区的包装感。远远就看到一个小店前排着长队，还没靠近就知道肯定是我们要找的地方了。

At lunchtime, we headed out to try a Michelin-recommended shop specializing in Khao Soi (Northern Thai curry noodles.) To make finding restaurants easier, I even downloaded the Michelin app, which lists every starred or recommended spot in each city. Khao Soi is the region’s most iconic dish: golden egg noodles in a rich coconut-based curry broth, topped with a handful of crispy fried noodles and served with pickled mustard greens, lime, onions, and usually chicken or beef.

We walked more than twenty minutes from the Old City to a very local neighborhood—narrow streets, old storefronts, none of the tourist polish. From a distance we could already see a long line outside a tiny shop; even before getting close, we knew we’d found the right place.

点餐方式也非常随性，自己在纸上写名字和要点的面种。店里空间不大，墙壁斑驳，汤汁放在一个个大桶里，墙上挂着美食节目《Somebody Feed Phil》的主持人照片，提示着这家店曾被节目拜访过。

Ordering was completely casual—you just write your name and the type of noodles you want on a slip of paper. The shop itself is small, with worn walls and big buckets of curry sauce lined up in the back. We went there because the Michelin app recommended it; we had no idea Phil from Somebody Feed Phil had ever been there. Only after sitting down did we notice his photo hanging on the wall — a clue that the show had once featured this tiny shop and probably helped to turn it into a tourist magnet.

连续三年获得米其林推荐的标识也挂在墙上 – A sign showing three consecutive years of Michelin recommendations also hangs on the wall.

虽然看起来混乱，但其实是一种“混乱里的秩序”。我们等了二三十分钟，终于听见被叫到名字。点了一份鸡肉咖喱面、一份牛肉咖喱面，味道不错，汤香而浓。不过因为这是我们第一次吃泰北咖喱面，没有比较对象，一时也判断不了它是否“值得米其林推荐”。等试试几家别的，再来下结论。

Although it looked chaotic, there was actually a kind of “order within the chaos.” We waited about twenty to thirty minutes before hearing our names called. We ordered one chicken khao soi and one beef khao soi. The flavors were good—the broth was fragrant and rich. But since this was our first time trying this noodle dish, we didn’t have a reference point, so it was hard to judge whether it truly deserved a Michelin recommendation. We’ll try a few more places before deciding.

吃完午饭后，我们徒步走回古城，在路边一家餐厅小歇片刻，点了椰子冰淇淋配芒果和一杯芒果沙冰，味道都特别好。在下午炎热的步行途中，这一份冰凉的甜味简直是必需的提神良方。

After lunch, we walked back toward the Old City and stopped at a small roadside restaurant for a break. We ordered coconut ice cream with mango and a mango smoothie—both were excellent. On a hot afternoon walk, that cold sweetness was absolutely the perfect pick-me-up.

在清迈意外地看到了很多的这种卖大麻的小店，一经搜索，泰国的大麻法律经历了从全面禁止，到逐步开放医用，再到近年重新收紧监管的变化。2018 年泰国成为东南亚首个医用大麻合法的国家，2022 年短暂“非刑事化”，随后因监管混乱而加强限制。如今大麻主要限于医用用途，娱乐性使用处在严格监管下。可是看到遍地开花的大麻店，很怀疑是如何监管的。

We were surprised to see so many cannabis shops in Chiang Mai. A quick search shows that Thailand’s cannabis laws have shifted from total prohibition, to gradual medical use, to tightened controls again in recent years. In 2018, Thailand became the first country in Southeast Asia to legalize medical cannabis. In 2022 it was briefly “decriminalized,” but after the regulatory chaos that followed, restrictions were tightened once more. Now cannabis is mostly limited to medical use, and recreational use is under strict regulation. But seeing these shops absolutely everywhere, it really makes you wonder how it’s actually being enforced.

今天正好是周日，也是清迈古城里最热闹、规模最大的周日夜市日。整条夜市从塔佩门一路延伸开去，摊位密密麻麻，卖着各种手工艺品、布包、饰物、香皂、香薰，还有当地人做的布偶、木雕；另一边则是琳琅满目的泰国小吃、甜品、鲜榨果汁，空气中充满烤肉、辣酱和水果的香气。某人坐在酒吧里开心地喝啤酒，我则一个人挤进夜市逛了逛。走了不到十分钟，就已经被汹涌的人流逼得步步后退，最终我被这满满的人海击败，决定撤退回到凉快的酒吧里。

Today happened to be Sunday, the day of Chiang Mai’s biggest and most lively night market. The entire market stretches from Tha Phae Gate onward, packed with stalls selling handicrafts, cloth bags, accessories, soaps, incense, locally made dolls and wood carvings. On the other side are endless Thai snacks, desserts, and fresh juices, with the air full of the smell of grilled meat, chili sauce, and fruit. One of us sat happily at a bar having beer, while I squeezed into the night market alone. After less than ten minutes, the sheer crush of people kept pushing me backward. Eventually, overwhelmed by the ocean of crowds, I gave up and retreated back to the cool bar.

晚餐我们也选了一家米其林推荐的餐厅，姜之家，离酒店步行五分钟。和中午那家苍蝇馆式的米其林推荐完全不同，这是一家装修精致、到处装点着花朵的餐厅，坐落在一栋带点殖民风情的老房子里。柔和的灯光、满眼的花艺、带创意风格的泰式料理、精致的摆盘，一切看起来都很米其林。价格算不上离谱，但比一般本地餐馆确实贵了好几倍。我本来对这家餐厅的期待并不算特别高，但毕竟是米其林推荐，心里还是有一点盼头。结果第一口下去就发现味道很一般，缺少了泰国菜该有的灵魂。老实说，路边很多地摊都能做出更地道、更让人满足的泰式风味。这一顿，说是失望，也不算过分。不知道为什么米其林要推荐这家餐厅。

For dinner, we chose another Michelin-recommended restaurant – The House by Ginger – just a five-minute walk from our hotel. Unlike the tiny, chaotic lunchtime shop, this place was beautifully decorated, filled with flowers, and housed in an old building with a hint of colonial charm. Soft lighting, floral arrangements everywhere, creative Thai-inspired dishes, refined plating—everything looked perfectly Michelin.

The prices weren’t outrageous, but definitely several times higher than a typical local restaurant. I hadn’t set my expectations too high, but since it was Michelin-recommended, I still hoped for something impressive. Instead, from the very first bite, it was clear the flavors were just average, missing the soul that Thai food should have. Honestly, plenty of street stalls serve more authentic and bold Thai flavors. Calling this meal disappointing wouldn’t be an exaggeration. I have no idea why Michelin chose to recommend this place.

两杯鸡尾酒，鸭肉，脆皮五花肉炒芥蓝，冬阴功汤，蒸包子, 我觉得最好的应该是我的那杯鸡尾酒 – Two cocktails, duck, crispy pork belly with kailan (Chinese broccoli), tom yum soup, and steamed buns — and honestly, the best thing was my cocktail.

所以今天尝试的两家米其林推荐，一家及格，一家翻车。

So, of the two Michelin spots we tried today, one was a hit and one was a nay.

Two bear events today, which is your favorite? – 今天有两个小熊事件，你更喜欢哪一个？